First time kitchen re-fit

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gk141054

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Hi guys,

The wife and I have finally got fed up of our kitchen which is the same now as it was when the house was built 14 years ago. We have not wall units, a freestanding cooker that food always falls down the sides, badly sealed worktops so wated gets down the gaps, very little storage space...

So eve though money is tight we have decided to do it up on a budget.

All of the current base units will stay with new doors and will be complemented with a built under over housing and a smaller unit under the sink (1.5 going down to a single bowl sink) making room at the end for a slimline dishwasher at the end.

We will then also have a built in hob, wall units, a proper extractor etc.

Will post up some "current" pics as soon as I get chance but in the meantime, I am looking at worktops and deciding what lengths i need.

Can anyone look at the pic below and tell me where you would put the joins and why?

worktop.jpg
 
You would need to post the measurements. But without those 2 & 4. 2 because you will give extra strength to the short bit and 4 would depend on where the sink & cooker are and what measurements the walls are
 
Buy a cheap jig on ebay and borrow a router. I wouldnt go with worktop jointing strips, they are no good. They just get chipped and end up bare metal.

With a little shopping around you can get a perfectly decent and modern kitchen for under £1000. Dont think this will include appliances though. IKEA have an 8 unit kitchen in their catalogue for £349 IIRC, this is cabinets and finish (tops, pelmet and plinth) only, and for the basic white finish, but it lists prices for many finishes in the same range.
 
Not sure on your budget, but I would try and stretch it a little and get new base units too as it will save loads of hassle when fitting the doors etc... Plus you'll get another 15 years out of your kitchen!

Getting a pro to mitre your joints is a must if you're on a budget too.

One slip with the router and you need a new worktop. I'm fortunate enough to have a best mate who's a joiner so he did ours, but it only took him a couple of hours to do 2 joints
 
The direct answer in my opinion would be probably 2 as it looks like 1 would leave a very short piece, and 3 or 4 depening on the size and the length your chosen worktop is available in. That might make the difference between needing to buy 3 lengths and only 2. I think all the other advice is good: new units is the way to go and steer clear of worktop joiners. Routing the joints is indeed a job for a pro or if you are experienced with a router. If you are determined to keep your old units, check the depth as worktop these days is typically 600mm and that will not give you any overhang on some older units.
 
Thanks for the input guys, much appreciated.

Unfortunately new units isn't an option, would prove far too expensive and we only propose to be in the house another 2 years or so. After that we either want to rent or sell it - either way it needs a new kitchen but obviously we don't want to spend too much on it.

Here are some pics as is:

[GALLERY=media, 22417][/GALLERY] [GALLERY=media, 22418][/GALLERY] [GALLERY=media, 22416][/GALLERY] [GALLERY=media, 22419][/GALLERY] [GALLERY=media, 22420][/GALLERY]

As a reminder, planned changes are:

1. Freestanding cooker will go and be replaced by built in over and hob

2. Sink unit will be reduced from 600mm to 500mm unit to allow washing machine to squeeze up and leave room for a slimline dishwasher.

3. Wall units and an extractor will be added

4. New tiled floor

5. New tiled splash backs

6. Would love to change that pig ugly strip light but with the artexed ceilings not sure what holes I would be left with to patch up....

7. Thought I better mention it even though its probably common sense... new worktops all round as mentioned in post 1.

Think thats about everything apart from a lick of paint.
 
Right guys, new quandry...

Current free standing cooker is gas. This will be replaced with a built under ELECTRIC oven and built in GAS hob.

I understand that I need a registered gas engineer to disconnect the old cooker and then re-connect the new hob to the gas.

Problem is I will probably want the old cooker disconnecting one morning in the AM and then the new hob reconnecting the same day in the afternoon once i've had time to do the cut outs for the hob.

I assume this will cost more for two call outs rather than if he just turned up, disconnected the old, reconnected the new and then went.

Can anyone see how I could get around this?
 
There isn't really a way around it as you'll either have to pay for 2 visits, or pay for him to stand about waiting for you to cut the worktop.

Just make sure you tell the installer up front what you're planning and negociate their price accordingly.

They might be able call in to do the disconnection on their way from/to another job.
 
@ the striplight - you wont find a better source of light for a kitchen.

Replace it with a new electronic high frequency one.

Hint: they dont sell these at B&Q. Just nasty flickering switch-start ones. Try an electrical wholesalers or online.
 
Cheers for the replies Bon and Steve.

Steve, not heard of an electronic high frequency strip light... do you have a link to one so I can have a look? (Just Googled but found nowt)
 
google for "fluorescent light fitting" and click on a supplier. Most will sell electronic ballasted fittings, as well as switch-start.

Electronic / high frequency fittings are fast to start, and flicker free. They are also silent - I bet yours hums and flickers a few times on startup? And its yucky and faded.

I found this:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MLTFL58G.html

Its designed for offices and may get grease buildup, but I like it. As far as I can tell its the only electronic ballasted fitting TLC sell at the moment :( there are other websites out there though.
 
gk141054 said:
I understand that I need a registered gas engineer to disconnect the old cooker and then re-connect the new hob to the gas.

Problem is I will probably want the old cooker disconnecting one morning in the AM and then the new hob reconnecting the same day in the afternoon once i've had time to do the cut outs for the hob.
Click to expand...

Disconnecting the old shoulnd't take very long, so if you get someone local to do it as first job of the day, then come back later to do a proper job, it shouldn't be too expensive.

If the freestanding cooker is connected with a bayonet hose they're intended for temporary disconnection, turn off the gas at the meter and disconnect the hose. I would suggest not turning the gas on again as bayonets are not always completely gas-tight in disconnected mode.
 
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