Fitting 2 earth cables to a lightswitch
- Thread starter Techboy
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You could straighten the three conductors (already connected) and replace the one from the back box with another single strand (from another piece of cable).
I'm not sure if this is what EFLI means but:
The three earth wires that are together in the green&yellow sleeve - connect them to the earth terminal on the back box together with the single strand g&Y wire that is alreay there.
You are then left with only one conductor, put that on the earth terminal on the switch faceplate.
Job done,
The three earth wires that are together in the green&yellow sleeve - connect them to the earth terminal on the back box together with the single strand g&Y wire that is alreay there.
You are then left with only one conductor, put that on the earth terminal on the switch faceplate.
Job done,
I have done what you said (see photo). The problem I have now is that I can turn the lights on an off, but they don't dim/brighten as they should - is this likely to be because of incorrect wiring (of the brown wires - both are in the socket with the X symbol), or because of a faulty lightswitch (it's new)?
By the way, the instructions say to wire the ground cable to the faceplate first, then the backplate - is there any danger in doing it backplate first, then faceplate?
By the way, the instructions say to wire the ground cable to the faceplate first, then the backplate - is there any danger in doing it backplate first, then faceplate?
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The lights aren't LEDs are they?
It looks like you have a looped in live, these are the two cables. Do you have a means to test for voltage, such as a two pole voltage indicator.
The switch plate indicates that that the live feed should go to the terminal marked live not load, the load is the cables leaving the switch to the lights.
You also need make sure you have purchased a dimmer capable of dealing with load wattage, do you know the rating of the switch and your total load.
Was the previous switch a dimmer? And do you know if your light have transformers or drivers that are dimmable or if you have dimmable lamps fitted. Not all lamps will dim.
The switch plate indicates that that the live feed should go to the terminal marked live not load, the load is the cables leaving the switch to the lights.
You also need make sure you have purchased a dimmer capable of dealing with load wattage, do you know the rating of the switch and your total load.
Was the previous switch a dimmer? And do you know if your light have transformers or drivers that are dimmable or if you have dimmable lamps fitted. Not all lamps will dim.
No problem doing it either way.
The bulbs are LED dimmable. Right now, I can turn them on and off, plus they dim/brighten a little, but not properly.
I have one cable in Live and two in Load.
LED bulbs (dimmable option): http://www.ledhut.co.uk/spot-lights...umens-45-watts-equiv-best-internet-price.html
Switch: http://www.diy.com/departments/vari...ey-remote-control-dimmer-switch/259510_BQ.prd
The previous lightswitch was an on/off switch. I have replaced the switch and the bulbs.
I have one cable in Live and two in Load.
LED bulbs (dimmable option): http://www.ledhut.co.uk/spot-lights...umens-45-watts-equiv-best-internet-price.html
Switch: http://www.diy.com/departments/vari...ey-remote-control-dimmer-switch/259510_BQ.prd
The previous lightswitch was an on/off switch. I have replaced the switch and the bulbs.
That dimmer might not work with LEDs and might not work with a small load.