Fitting kitchen around a pillar

leaf17

leaf17

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Hi all,

Just started fitting our new units from DIY Kitchens. There's a pillar that comes out of the wall by 11cm and is 66cm wide. I'll have to cut out the back of 3 units to accommodate the pillar. Not too worried about the tall unit and base unit, but not sure how to deal with the wall unit.

The wall unit will line up with the base unit in the position you can see on the first photo. This means that the 18mm side of the unit will just sneak past the right side of the pillar. So all of the wall unit will need to be cut out at the back, other than that right hand side of the unit.

So my challenges are how to maintain structural integrity whilst removing so much of the back of the unit and getting a strong fix to the wall. Any smart ideas?

Cheers,
Jack

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I'm a DIYer and fitted ONLY a few kitchens - ALL from flat pack units , IKEA, MFI , B&Q etc
whats the pillar made of and what does it contain ? Pipes , Cables, can it be removed?
can the TALL unit go in that position ?
The units are delivered fully constructed, so cutting one down may be an issue , if they are glued, unlike flat packed which is quite easy to reduce.

Do you have a router ?
Can you see how the carcass is constructed ?
 
eta said:
I'm a DIYer and fitted ONLY a few kitchens - ALL from flat pack units , IKEA, MFI , B&Q etc
whats the pillar made of and what does it contain ? Pipes , Cables, can it be removed?
can the TALL unit go in that position ?
The units are delivered fully constructed, so cutting one down may be an issue , if they are glued, unlike flat packed which is quite easy to reduce.

Do you have a router ?
Can you see how the carcass is constructed ?
Click to expand...

The pillar supports a steel for an extension so can't be adjusted.

Afraid the tall unit can't go there as there needs to be a worktop to left side of cooker.

Yes I've got a router, jigsaw, circular saw etc. so reckon I've got the kit I need, now just need to work out the best way of tackling it. As soon as I've taken a router to it there's no going back!
 
the router was to put a slot in for the back to go back in, although that could be fitted without.
just depends if they have glued the carcass together and dowelled
Often the hardboard back, makes the unit square, when nailed/slotted in - the back looks like its stapled top and bottom, not sure whats that into ?
have you got a photo from the front
Do the sides feel like they are glued or can you move the gap slightly ?
 
Not clear what the back is stapled into. Can only imagine that staples are angled so that they staple into the top and bottom of the unit.

A couple of pics of the front of the wall unit below. I'm 99% sure they're glued and dowelled, I stupidly didn't think to ask for that unit being delivered unassembled.

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you maybe able to get a flat pack from IKEA , which are quite cheap, or DIY Shed - check exactly the same size , as they are different heights & Widths , then cut that down and refit the door
OR , ask DIY kitchens if they can send a flat pack
A dowel jig maybe useful, I got one recently from Lidl

I have cut a few IKEA "METOD" units down when i kitted out a utility room , floor to ceiling in wall units , and had to cut round a soil pipe and a brick pillar
 
Last edited:
I'm not seeing any issues.
The pillar juts out. Cut the rear of the cabinet off and move the back in by the depth of the pillar.
 
Last edited:
Ryler said:
I'm not seeing any issues.
The pillar juts out. Cut the rear of the cabinet off and move it in by the depth of the pillar.
Click to expand...

How do you suggest I fix the wall unit to the wall? The fixings are attached to the back panel so by cutting out the back I'll be removing the fixings. Do you think I jut cut out the back then fix back panel back in place? Not confident about how strong that'd be.
 
You could attach a couple of battens, one at the top, one at the bottom, so the top of the inside of the cabinet sits on the top batten, and the bottom one is inside the cabinet.

Couple of screws, bit of glue, and that should be pretty secure.
 
mikeey84 said:
You could attach a couple of battens, one at the top, one at the bottom, so the top of the inside of the cabinet sits on the top batten, and the bottom one is inside the cabinet.

Couple of screws, bit of glue, and that should be pretty secure.
Click to expand...

That's a good shout, a bit like a French cleat system.

I actually make the adjustments yesterday and took a while to get it all square and to reattach the hanging brackets but it should do the trick. Thanks all for your help!

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