Fitting replacement hinges to UPVC French doors

[Forty45]

The hinges need replacing as the top ones are worn. I've got 3 to fit each side to take the weight better.

Most of the sash covers are at 8mm +/-2mm. The photo shows the measurements at the extreme ends of the range. Both doors are 12mm all along the bottom and 10 at the top in the centre.

My plan is to fit the hinges without removing the doors. I will fit a midway hinge first to keep it in position.

I want to get the tops of the doors level (and keep the sash cover in range). Should I check the toe and heel first, or try to move the door in the frame ?
Should I work on the right side door first?

 

[ronniecabers]

Have you got the same hinges as existing? If so I'd replace the hinges , then check toe and heel

 

[Forty45]

Have you got the same hinges as existing? If so I'd replace the hinges , then check toe and heel

No, those are no longer available (Anglian doors). I bought a replacement set from UPVC Spares4Repairs.
I'd rather do the hinges first if possible, but I don't want to remove one and the door move. The glazing unit must weigh a bit and I'd rather not have to take it out if it can be avoided.

 

[ronniecabers]

You may find that the door will need to be removed as the hinges will probably not sit in the same place and you could potentially end up with a lot of ' binding' , I would gey that broken centre one first to see . The other problem is the weight of the glass will cause the door to move as soon as you remove either the top or bottom hinge

 

[Forty45]

You may find that the door will need to be removed as the hinges will probably not sit in the same place and you could potentially end up with a lot of ' binding' , I would gey that broken centre one first to see . The other problem is the weight of the glass will cause the door to move as soon as you remove either the top or bottom hinge

The thing in the centre is not a hinge, just a guide. I was thinking if I replaced that with a hinge first it would keep the door in position, and hopefully prevent it moving out of position if I replace the others one at a time.
Somebody with Anglian French doors commented on the hinge suppliers YouTube for fitting these that they had replaced theirs with the doors in place, and had no problem afterwards. So it must be possible.

 

[ronniecabers]

I'm not saying it's not possible , just be prepared for issues

 

[Forty45]

I'm not saying it's not possible , just be prepared for issues

I've looked at the doors over the weekend and realise removing the glass and doors is required to do this.

The opening door is on the left in the photo and it's top hinge is the one which starting to fail. The other door seems to be better positioned in the frame.

I measured the left door diagonally and it's s 10mm longer bottom left to top right. Removed the beading strips and found the most packers have been put in the top right corner on the top of the glass, which I guess explains (in part) the 10mm difference.

Opened the left door and put a spirit level on the frame - to get it level needed a 5mm packer on the hinge side. The top of the frame is better, only 1mm needed to the lock side. Vertically it's okay.

If I remove the glass so I can move the door easily and fit the hinges, should I position the door (resting on packers) with an equal gap top and bottom in the frame? I assume I need to use an extra 5mm of packing on the hinge side to get it as square as possible in the opening?

Once the door is in the correct position I can work out where the hinges need to go, fit them and then toe and heal the glass (if necessary).

 

[ronniecabers]

Ideally yes the door should be sat equally in the framework. If you get that 'square and level ' before fitting the hinges it should be OK ( not guaranteed as the door frame could be out of square... and it's an older door) . You will need to ' toe and heel ' once the door and glass is refitted regardless, as toe and heeling the glass correctly acts as a diagonal brace ( as you see on wooden doors and gates ) , in theory stopping the door from dropping. However having said that , it's quite normal to have to adjust the hinges at least once after fitting to allow for ' settling '

 

[Forty45]

Ideally yes the door should be sat equally in the framework. If you get that 'square and level ' before fitting the hinges it should be OK ( not guaranteed as the door frame could be out of square... and it's an older door) . You will need to ' toe and heel ' once the door and glass is refitted regardless, as toe and heeling the glass correctly acts as a diagonal brace ( as you see on wooden doors and gates ) , in theory stopping the door from dropping. However having said that , it's quite normal to have to adjust the hinges at least once after fitting to allow for ' settling '

Great, thanks for this and noted. I'll proceed when the weather looks settled.

I can only get a 1mm packer to fit between the door and the plate the lock rod goes into, so in the centre of the frame tolerances are tight. It's the same top and bottom.