flashing leak to low pitch roof

[Jonathan49]

Hi,
I have a leak from a flashing that joins a steep (high pitch) roof to a low pitch roof. Unfortunately the roof is constructed wrongly in that the start of the low pitch roof is higher than the bottom of the tiles on the high pitch roof. This means that there is channel at the bend where water collects and creates a small pond. The water in the pond can then find its way into the loft via the flashing joins and overlaps. I have silicon sealed before but would like to make a permanent solution. My idea is to cut off about one inch from the lower edge of the tiles of the high pitch roof with a 4 inch grinder. I could then lift the flashing and put in a support at the bend so that the pond is eliminated and there is always a good angle downwards. My issue is how to cut off the bottom inch of tiles without damaging or cutting through the lead under the tiles. Perhaps I can get a piece of steel under like a slate ripper to protect the tiles. Does anyone have and advice or ideas. It would be less work to just cut and inch off the tiles near each join but the lower edge of the tiles would look a bit odd. Thanks.

 

[DAZB]

To fix this you really need to strip off the first few courses of slate and infill behind the lead with a batten or plywood bearer to take out the step and then reslate them in. Easy enough to do but if you have no experience then calling a roofer may be a better option.

 

[catlad]

What you are proposing is a botch! and it might work, but then it might not! Dazb has given the correct remedy . Can you not get back the people who did the work?

 

[Jonathan49]

Thanks both for your prompt reply. The house was built by an enthusiastic amateur in 2010 so there is no recourse - it is not recent work. I agree that the suggestion from Dazb is the proper way to do it. I guess that if the first courses are removed the slates can be fixed back higher up - with more overlap and so then there is no need to cut the slates short? I suppose there will need to be another batten or a repositioned batten in the correct place to take slate hooks because the slates cannot be nailed at the top - is that correct? Thanks.

 

[datarebal]

It's slates out to do a decent job. .
The big issue I see is they look either Brazilian .. or possibly Chinese slates .. no joke removing them .

 

[Jonathan49]

Thanks datarebal. You are totally correct that the slates on the steep pitch are super cheap and break easily. Originally the low pitch roof had those as well but they kept breaking in the frost and could not be walked on. I had the slates on the low pitch roof replaced 5 years ago with SQQ Riverstone Ultra gauranteed for 50 years. That means that I can walk on the low pitch roof without breaking slates and I have had no breakages at all. Sadly I did not get the flashing issue dealt with at the time and also sadly the people who did the job did not suggest it. I guess they didn't want to have a go at removing the cheap slates.

 

[Jonathan49]

Hi, Of course the difficulty of removing is why I am considering the idea of just cutting 1 inch off the bottom of all the slates with a 4 inch grinder. The tricky bit will be not to cut through the lead. I would need to stop short on the underneath tile and then hope it will snap off - which I think it would.

 

[datarebal]

That means that I can walk on the low pitch roof without breaking slates

I wouldn't bank on that , we wouldn't walk on any slate roof.
Top course of slates on the flat pitch section are kept in with hall hooks so easy to remove.
You might be able remove the top cut course and the course below and tweak the detailing from there.
its a long shot that will depend on the actual lead detailing.
id do my best to avoid messy with the nasty stuff on the steep pitch section
Separate note id check the gauge on the main roof.. may be an illusion but something looks amiss

 

[catlad]

Good shout data...I hadn't noticed the hooks on the lower slates! OP If you unhook the toppers on the lower pitch you can then remove the next course which will allow you to remove the top baton I would position it a couple of inch lower which should give you access to work on the lead detail.