Floor levelling compound you can screw/nail into?
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You can screw into all of them? Just need to use a raw plug
D
Doggit
Floor leveling compounds don't tend to end up being that thick, so what's the floor underneath it - or how thick are you tending to make it. As Daz said, use a rawl plug into the subfloor.
Well, I have an uneven floor on the first floor of an old Victorian building due to historical structural movement. I'm thinking of ways to fix this. Being a first floor there will be no sub-floor, just floorboards mounted on joists. I know the best solution is to just make a variety of wooden levelling shims.
However, I'm toying with the idea of using levelling compound in a slightly unorthodox way. the idea would be to dam the exposed joists either side with plywood or similar (and at either end), and use a levelling compound in the dam. I would then want to be able to screw it down to the joists and then relay the floorboards and screw through the floorboards, hardened compound and joists to fix them in place.
I didn't say this right away since everyone will say this is mad, but I'm just wondering about the possibility.
However, I'm toying with the idea of using levelling compound in a slightly unorthodox way. the idea would be to dam the exposed joists either side with plywood or similar (and at either end), and use a levelling compound in the dam. I would then want to be able to screw it down to the joists and then relay the floorboards and screw through the floorboards, hardened compound and joists to fix them in place.
I didn't say this right away since everyone will say this is mad, but I'm just wondering about the possibility.
D
Doggit
If we didn't come up with odd ideas, nothing would get invented, but in this case, I suspect you'll find that the movement in the floorboards will just carck the floor leveling compound.
Shims can be used, but they take a long time to mess around with. The easiest method, is to lift all the floorboards, and then start in the corner that's highest, and use a 4x2 joist of the same length, placed alongside the first joist and hold them together with a couple of quick clamps, then drill through the two joists, and bolt them together using 100mm m8 bolts every 600mm, and a square washer and nut to tighten them up. If you've got say a 6ft spirit level, then you can move across to about the 5th joist, and then set that one in place, and then go back and do the intermediate ones holding the spirit level across the 1st and 5th joists to help you find the level quickly. 2 men can do the job in a day. A right angle drill is handy, and a short stubby drill like the irwin http://www.irwin.co.uk/tools/drill-bits/blue-groove-6x-4-wood-boring-bits goes through the joist dead quick.
Shims can be used, but they take a long time to mess around with. The easiest method, is to lift all the floorboards, and then start in the corner that's highest, and use a 4x2 joist of the same length, placed alongside the first joist and hold them together with a couple of quick clamps, then drill through the two joists, and bolt them together using 100mm m8 bolts every 600mm, and a square washer and nut to tighten them up. If you've got say a 6ft spirit level, then you can move across to about the 5th joist, and then set that one in place, and then go back and do the intermediate ones holding the spirit level across the 1st and 5th joists to help you find the level quickly. 2 men can do the job in a day. A right angle drill is handy, and a short stubby drill like the irwin http://www.irwin.co.uk/tools/drill-bits/blue-groove-6x-4-wood-boring-bits goes through the joist dead quick.
Doggitt, this sounds like it could be the best way, thanks for the tip, very helpful. I hadn't come across this method.
The only downside would be new screw holes in the floorboards since the 'new' joist will be in a slightly different location, but I can probably live with this.
The only downside would be new screw holes in the floorboards since the 'new' joist will be in a slightly different location, but I can probably live with this.