Gearbox Leak Advice
- Thread starter ReganAndCarter
- Start date
This is what I had immediately after clutch change. Felt like something blocking 1st and reverse. Eventually I could feed the lever in, but coming out of these gears wasn't smooth like it had been either. Second gear was a problem too, but less so. I found it easier to slip lever into first just as I was rolling to a stop at a junction/lights. If I sat at junction/lights in neutral then tried to go into first it could be difficult. Top 3 gears were fine. As time has gone on, the problems have resolved themselves except going into second is a bit notchy.
Anyway, van going in tomorrow.
Yep, they let the gearbox weight hang and it probably bent the clutch centre, so it no longer slides easily on the splines. Either that or they missed lubing the guide tube.
Garage phoned and confirmed it's leaking in the bell housing. Also the selector mechanism on top of box that gear change cables connect to has play/wear in it. They quoted to remove box, inspect clutch and do a gearbox reseal - whatever that involves? Will report on any action needed to selector mechanism and any other problems found. Also price for recon box if needed - though I'm hoping not. Told them to go ahead and they will let me know what needs doing after dismantling and inspection.
Asked them to inspect clutch for any damage that may have been caused during clutch replacement. Also to check input shaft, but they said it's not possible to hang the weight of the gearbox on the input shaft during box installation. Something to do with the way the bolts are.So Keith is right about this not being likely.
Unfortunately box removal requires subframe removal first. Spoke to them later and when they were removing subframe/suspension a coil spring flew out
that they said had been broken for some time. More money!
Asked them to inspect clutch for any damage that may have been caused during clutch replacement. Also to check input shaft, but they said it's not possible to hang the weight of the gearbox on the input shaft during box installation. Something to do with the way the bolts are.So Keith is right about this not being likely.
Unfortunately box removal requires subframe removal first. Spoke to them later and when they were removing subframe/suspension a coil spring flew out
that they said had been broken for some time. More money!
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All finished now. Van was in for almost a week. Dropped the subframe and removed box. Said leak was from case seal and clutch guide tube. Also said slight weep from engine rear crankshaft seal - must have been slight as not aware of engine oil leaks. Wouldn't mind so much, but I paid previous garage to replace guide tube and crank seal just over a year ago while they were replacing clutch. Between clutch replacement and this latest extravaganza, the previous garage (who did the clutch) had replaced a driveshaft seal, which obviously didn't cure the leak. Partly my fault for letting it slide since then and living with a slight leak.
The crank seal and guide tube have been replaced again (assuming the original garage actually did do them). The box has been opened and examined then had a full reseal. There was play/wear in the shaft and bushing that links the cables and change mechanism on top of box and passes through casing into the box to swap the cogs - so shaft and bushes renewed. Internals inspected, no serious wear found.
Other incidentals were the broken coil spring that made a bid for freedom, couple of ball joint rubber covers and a CV boot. Luckily they found the clutch hadn't suffered much oil contamination - only misting. They were able to clean and reuse it - which I'm happy about as it only has 7,000 miles on it.
Together with the new genuine Fiat gear cables (an Ebay bargain) that I fitted myself last summer, the clutch and gearbox now drive like new and are bone dry underneath. I had thought that the notchiness going into second was worn syncro, but they said syncros were fine, Notchiness now gone, so must have been the play in the shaft and bushing that passes through box casing. Really pleased, but it did cost a bit. Glad I took it to gearbox specialist as they really knew their stuff and have good reputation. Wish I had got them to do the clutch a year ago.
This weekend it's time for me to change the oil and filter, then hopefully that's there's a good break before any more spending.
Thanks to all who replied with advice.
The crank seal and guide tube have been replaced again (assuming the original garage actually did do them). The box has been opened and examined then had a full reseal. There was play/wear in the shaft and bushing that links the cables and change mechanism on top of box and passes through casing into the box to swap the cogs - so shaft and bushes renewed. Internals inspected, no serious wear found.
Other incidentals were the broken coil spring that made a bid for freedom, couple of ball joint rubber covers and a CV boot. Luckily they found the clutch hadn't suffered much oil contamination - only misting. They were able to clean and reuse it - which I'm happy about as it only has 7,000 miles on it.
Together with the new genuine Fiat gear cables (an Ebay bargain) that I fitted myself last summer, the clutch and gearbox now drive like new and are bone dry underneath. I had thought that the notchiness going into second was worn syncro, but they said syncros were fine, Notchiness now gone, so must have been the play in the shaft and bushing that passes through box casing. Really pleased, but it did cost a bit. Glad I took it to gearbox specialist as they really knew their stuff and have good reputation. Wish I had got them to do the clutch a year ago.
This weekend it's time for me to change the oil and filter, then hopefully that's there's a good break before any more spending.
Thanks to all who replied with advice.
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Thanks very much for the update albeit an expensive one!
I think we've all been down that road, where we spend far more on the vehicle than we should - but that's just the way it is.
John
I think we've all been down that road, where we spend far more on the vehicle than we should - but that's just the way it is.
John
Thanks very much for the update albeit an expensive one!
I think we've all been down that road, where we spend far more on the vehicle than we should - but that's just the way it is.
John
Thanks. I did seriously toy with the idea of changing for a much later van. However, at the moment used vehicles are so expensive it made sense to extend the life of a vehicle that is very tidy and everything works on it, also the engine is perfect. I've looked after it for almost 15 years now - so better the devil you know.
Are there any corrosion issues anywhere? Bloomin' good for an 18 year old commercial!
John
John
Are there any corrosion issues anywhere? Bloomin' good for an 18 year old commercial!
John
These vans don't really rust much, however the sills can. They started bubbling a bit on 3 outer sill ends. Had someone I know cut the rot out and do proper, strong repairs - not just patches on top. Then repaint in body colour with stone chip coating - as original. Wouldn't know they've been repaired.
Also serves as my camper when I want to get away.
[GALLERY=media, 107753]DSC01163 by ReganAndCarter posted 4 Mar 2022 at 12:32 PM[/GALLERY]
Are there any corrosion issues anywhere?
No corrosion as everything was covered in oil.
Andy
@ReganAndCarter , sounds like you got the right man for the job second time around.
Expensive but you get what you pay for (including their experience which is priceless imho).
Expensive but you get what you pay for (including their experience which is priceless imho).
Yes, bit like when I wince at bill when taking cat to vet. Have to remind myself that if you want the services of a pro, you have to pay. Company I used is Bristol gearbox reconditioning company (been going almost 50 years) that branched out into fitting them as well. They've got 12 lifts so fair sized place. Will be using them for anything gearbox or clutch related from now on.