Glueing hardwood floor to staircase

[jacoscar]

I’m going to cover the treads of my staircase with the same hardwood floor as the first floor and the risers with white painted MdF.
What’s the best adhesive for the job?
A friend did the same with good results (his staircase even stopped creaking) but he can’t remember what he used, he mentioned that it needed a certain amount of flexibility based on his research
What do you recommend?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Your friend is right about it needing a certainly amount of flexibllity. I've used a white, rubbery adhesive called "Stik" in the past (yes, really, it's German) but it is no longer listed by our supplier, presumably another Brexit benefit. You might want to take a look at a bonding agent such as CT1 which bonds pretty much anything to anything, whilst also being flexible. I have used this on a few things like threshold bars in the past and it has been successful. The only word of caution is about setting times - all bonding compounds take time to cure, so you need to avoid using the stairs for at least the curing time given by the manufacturer, possibly a bit more. Not doing this is asking for an accident. The other point is that you need to start at the top and work downwards to avoid treadi g on areas where the bonding agent hasn't set. So maybe think in terms of sending the wife and kids to the MIL for the weekend

 

[jacoscar]

Your friend is right about it needing a certainly amount of flexibllity. I've used a white, rubbery adhesive called "Stik" in the past (yes, really, it's German) but it is no longer listed by our supplier, presumably another Brexit benefit. You might want to take a look at a bonding agent such as CT1 which bonds pretty much anything to anything, whilst also being flexible. I have used this on a few things like threshold bars in the past and it has been successful. The only word of caution is about setting times - all bonding compounds take time to cure, so you need to avoid using the stairs for at least the curing time given by the manufacturer, possibly a bit more. Not doing this is asking for an accident. The other point is that you need to start at the top and work downwards to avoid treadi g on areas where the bonding agent hasn't set. So maybe think in terms of sending the wife and kids to the MIL for the weekend

I was thinking of doing the even steps one day and the odd steps the day after
Then only step on every other step

 

[Deleted member 174758]

The big risk is if you step on one of the treads where the bonding agent hasn't yet set.

Also, not sure how that will work out for you - are you adding a new nosing section or L-profile after installationnof the treads and risers and how do you intend to deal with the original wooden nosings?

 

[jacoscar]

The big risk is if you step on one of the treads where the bonding agent hasn't yet set.

Also, not sure how that will work out for you - are you adding a new nosing section or L-profile after installationnof the treads and risers and how do you intend to deal with the original wooden nosings?

I have bought some aluminium nosing that will cover the existing wooden nosing

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Had to ask. Occasionally people say they intend to saw the nosings off flush, which is really a bit of a no-no.

Maybe a job to do on a Saturday when the missus and the sprogs are out the house? CT1 skins in 30 to 40 minutes (depending on thickness), but really takes 12 hours plus to get a full strength cure, so useable with care after maybe 4 to 6 hours

 

[RandomGrinch]

The other point is that you need to start at the top and work downwards to avoid treadi g on areas where the bonding agent hasn't set. So maybe think in terms of sending the wife and kids to the MIL for the weekend

Unless the stairs are to the basement!

 

[jacoscar]

Had to ask. Occasionally people say they intend to saw the nosings off flush, which is really a bit of a no-no.

Maybe a job to do on a Saturday when the missus and the sprogs are out the house? CT1 skins in 30 to 40 minutes (depending on thickness), but really takes 12 hours plus to get a full strength cure, so useable with care after maybe 4 to 6 hours

I really need the wife to help me!

There was also a specific adhesive for glueing the aluminium nosing to the wood (recommended by the manufacturer) but I need to dig that out (I bought the nosing 2 years ago, LOL)

 

[jacoscar]

My friend found the adhesive he used
Everbuild Puraflex 40
I’ve bought the same, but I still haven’t used it yet

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