Hanging a door on Sliding rail kit

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I bought one of those sliding door kits so I could replace a curtain with a door that I can slide out of the way rather than hang the door and lose some space.
I need to put a batten up first as the holes do not marry up on the door frames. In the pic attached I've drawn in the batten (wont be green !) but worried that there will be no fixings between the left frame due to it passing the glass top.
The door will just be the standard 10kg 6-panel door. I'm not sure what fixings to use for the batten as I need it to be very stable and I can only screw it into the door frame.
My main question is what batten should I get, what thickness of wood, should it be quite thick so I can screw the steel frame into it ?
Also any particular screw width/length - I'm assuming the screw should only go into the wood frame and not through into the brick work ?
Thanks for any advice.
Worse case, I'll get someone to fit the door for me but I'd prefer it sliding.
 

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  • rail.jpg
    rail.jpg
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Because I can still have a cupboard or storage against a wall like i can with a curtain. Sliding doors slide....they do not open out.
 
We can't really recommend anything as we aren't aware of the apertute size, thereof we have no idea.

In my personal experience of being a Carpenter for many years, bifold internal doors are cr@p, they are difficult to use, but if you insist on having one then get a Carpenter in, it'll save you a lot of aggrevation.
 
No its just a hanging door that slides. Quite common now. But I may still get a carpenter or trades person in as its a hit out of diy comfort zone.
 
Not much detail about your kit but a door that light could get away with any reasonable wood, 3x2, 4x1 etc
 
I've put up a Herkules 120kg sliding door kit. Considering the weight of the door, the brackets to hold the track are surprisingly slender, yet they are fine for the job..
1710007970865.png


For the light weight door you have, you may be overly worrying.
As mentioned above, a 3x2 feels about right! :)
 
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