Help needed please New thermostat install

[TABOO]

Hi I'm new and I could do with some help if guys wouldn't mind.

So my current boiler is a combine and it's running a single mechanical thermostat. This is a Honeywell unit I have just had new radiators fitted as the ones in my place was around 30 years old. As the guys was just about to leave I asked about my thermostat and its location. And the guy said it could do with a digital unit and also moved to new location as it directly opposite the rad in my hallway that's about 6 feet long 2 feet wide. I live in a bungalow he said ideally a wireless one wound be grate. Then he left I phoned the housing up spoke to them and basically told no to a replacement.

So I have just bought one it's a older unit type but I'm not interested in bells and whistles. Just want it to turn on turn and turn off at the set temp.

So my Boiler is a Worcestershire Greenstar I.

The wireless thermostat I just bought is a F4718G Flomasta

Now I have found the info for both units to wire up. I'd just like to check with you guys the correct way to wire it up if you wouldn't mind. Taking a look what's frowning me off is its saying volt free contact. But anyway I'll upload the pictures now. Thanks for any help

 

[mcprinter]

What thermostat do you currently have?
Can you post a pic of the wiring to it?

On the new stat, L & N power it. When heat is required terminal 1 and 2 connect.
You might be switching live to the boiler or you may have a pair of switching wires coming from/to the boiler

 

[stem]

Some boilers use 230V for their control, and some generate 24v internally for the external controls to use. A voltage free contact means that it is completely isolated from the mains supply, so it can be used to switch the voltage that is connected to it, be it 230V or 24v.

In your case it's 230V so LS (Live Supply) goes to 1 and LR (Live Return) goes to 2.

Then you need a 230V mains supply connecting to L and N. This should come from the same 3A fused supply that feeds the gas boiler. The L you can get by linking terminals L and 1 (with the wire in from LS) and the N from NS (Neutral Supply)

As per @mcprinter you may find these are the same connections that currently go to your existing thermostat.

 

[ianmcd]

Then he left I phoned the housing up spoke to them and basically told no to a replacement

Did they agree to you replacing the radiators ?

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Did they agree to you replacing the radiators ?

It might have been the housing who replaced them?

 

[martygturner]

Hi I'm new and I could do with some help if guys wouldn't mind.
volatge
So my current boiler is a combine and it's running a single mechanical thermostat. This is a Honeywell unit I have just had new radiators fitted as the ones in my place was around 30 years old. As the guys was just about to leave I asked about my thermostat and its location. And the guy said it could do with a digital unit and also moved to new location as it directly opposite the rad in my hallway that's about 6 feet long 2 feet wide. I live in a bungalow he said ideally a wireless one wound be grate. Then he left I phoned the housing up spoke to them and basically told no to a replacement.

So I have just bought one it's a older unit type but I'm not interested in bells and whistles. Just want it to turn on turn and turn off at the set temp.

So my Boiler is a Worcestershire Greenstar I.

The wireless thermostat I just bought is a F4718G Flomasta

Now I have found the info for both units to wire up. I'd just like to check with you guys the correct way to wire it up if you wouldn't mind. Taking a look what's frowning me off is its saying volt free contact. But anyway I'll upload the pictures now. Thanks for any help

All the volt free means is that voltage is supplied from another source eg a link wire...

 

[TABOO]

Hay guys sorry for only just getting back. I didn't receive any notification to say I'd had a reply. This is the currenty the wiring setup thanks for all the replies I will read over them now

 

[Deleted member 267285]

I would say red to Live, Blue to neutral, Yellow for the call for heat and place a link wire from Live to common.

 

[TABOO]

Hi the thermostat is a honeywell basic

What thermostat do you currently have?
Can you post a pic of the wiring to it?

On the new stat, L & N power it. When heat is required terminal 1 and 2 connect.
You might be switching live to the boiler or you may have a pair of switching wires coming from/to the boiler

Hi its a Honeywell

 

[TABOO]

Did they agree to you replacing the radiators ?

Yes they replaced them all as they were from around 1990 and rusted out bad.

 

[TABOO]

I would say red to Live, Blue to neutral, Yellow for the call for heat and place a link wire from Live to common.

That what was thinking apart from the common I didn't know what that was lol

 

[TABOO]

Wow guys the wiring is shocking nothing is tight and there wires all over the place not twisted tight and screws seem loss on all the fittings as soon as the Thermostat turns up I'll try to sort it all out. I'll take pictures along the way so I can back track but I had to tighten up the red cae on the right as it was all over the place. Good job I turned power off before even looking. Lol

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Wow guys the wiring is shocking nothing is tight and there wires all over the place not twisted tight and screws seem loss on all the fittings as soon as the Thermostat turns up I'll try to sort it all out. I'll take pictures along the way so I can back track but I had to tighten up the red cae on the right as it was all over the place. Good job I turned power off before even looking. Lol

Wow

 

[TABOO]

So I have got this fitted now and it seems to be working. I'll post some more pics of the wiring I started with and mine wiring after. It might not be that much better but it's still better and no cables are losses. This is before

 

[TABOO]

This is it after I wired it up and moved some wiring about.

I still have hot water at the tap after it running for a couple of seconds. But this thermostat I can't work out
It has a 7 day timer with 4 different settings for each day.

It also has a temp override and a permanent override.

Now I have it set to permanent override
As I want to control when I want it to come and when I want to to it off. But I can't work out how to do it. And having trouble with working out how to set the temp I want it to get to then to turn off.

Sorry if I sound stupid trying to explain myself.

But to put it easy as I can old unit set to 10c so wouldn't come on. Turn it to say 18c it would click and come on but after the first click I'd move it up a 20c. After a long time it would hit the 20c and turn off. A d I'd just get up and turn it back down to 10 before I go bed.

But pics of how it looks now