Henry Hoover Hi/Lo Not Working

K

KennyPowers

Joined
1 Jun 2017
Messages
195
Reaction score
3
Country
United Kingdom
Hi all,

Got a Henry Hoover (HVR-200A), and the Hi/Lo rocker switch does not seem to be working. The red neon on the switch is not illuminated. The hoover powers on, but permanently in high mode.

Thinking either the rocker switch or PCB has gone. Tried multimeter on switch blades, didn't seem to buzz continuity - but I'm not sure if this switch operates like a normal switch?

Opened up, and looked at PCB. There does appear to be some discolouration, possible from components burning out? I reassemble the hoover again, and noticed a brief burning electronics smell when I powered on. Seems ok now.

What do you think it could be, the switch or PCB? (hopefully the switch as it is cheaper!)

Cheers

IMG-20200324-142801.jpg
 
Thanks guys, I'll check out the PCB thread.

Can be my lockdown side project.
 
Before I order a replacement PCB, was thinking if it was the triac (or something else on the PCB), wouldn't that mean the hoover would not power on at all, and be completely dead?

It is hi/full power only at the moment.
 
I haven’t studied at all but one thought I had was that the PCB only comes in to play at low speed.....on the high speed the board is largely bypassed and the motor switched directly to full power.
That may well be miles clear of the mark, of course!
I have a couple of these machines running on full power all of the time, and their reliability doesn’t seem to be compromised.
John :)
 
Henry is a great vacuum, but on full power it is way too much for some things.
 
I've ordered a replacement PCB off eBay, going to take a gamble it's that rather than the hi lo rocker switch.

It looks like they've changed the design of the PCB, so maybe it is more reliable now.

I tried testing the hi lo switch (momentary rocker switch) with a dmm. Appears to be a push-to-break type switch, but beyond that I don't know
 
I thought it was William H Hoover not Henry Hoover? May be my history is wrong? I have found the semi-industrial air velocity cleaner (they do not produce a vacuum) has to large of a hose, and too compact to safely suck up water, the industrial versions were much taller, so any water was well below the motor and the float had time to switch off in time. Seems so daft to have electronics in a unit traditionally designed to suck water, the industrial versions had three motors and to vary the suction you selected how many motors were running, worked on loads used to clean before pouring concrete, big problem for me as most were 20 amp 110 volt but fitted with a 16 amp plug, and where I worked 16 amp sockets were protected with 16 amp trips, so had to alter them with either 110 volt three phase cable and plugs or 32 amp.

Hopefully you have now cured your problem, I am sure my wet/dry unit does not have a high/low switch, I used it so as not to damage the house cleaner with bits of wire etc, but to be frank in the house on carpet once finished had to get out the Dyson to do it all again anyway, without brushes it was useless, OK the Flymo does clean quite well, but all the rubbish goes through the impeller and any dust goes straight through the bag, OK for blowing leafs but not much good to clean with, and yes it could do with some thing to slow the 3 kW motor, but that is simple on/off.

When first working with suction cleaners I was told off for calling it a vacuum cleaner, this one was large, it had a 65 horse power motor, and the guy explained how aim was for air velocity, and did a demo with half house brick, put the pick up with 1/8 inch clearance and the pressure in the unit really dropped, but brick stayed in place, with an inch clearance the brick was sucked up no problem. So the suction nozzle had wheels to hold it off the ground, so air could flow, hold the suction nozzle at an angle in hand held mode so air could enter and it would suck up gallons of water, but stick it straight into the water and it would do nothing.

OK this was designed to clean streets, and mounted on a 16 ton wagon, but idea is the same, needs to suck air to work.
 
Update - ordered new design PCB off ebay. It's arrived and I've fitted it...

...and it still doesn't work. It sounds like it is in constant lo speed now (though I could be wrong). The hi lo switch still does nothing, and the neon is not lit.

Maybe it is/was the switch after all?
 
what about a photo of the switch?
one that shows the front and rear of it (or 2 pics)

we can then tell you if its a normal switch.

BTW on that PCB there is a 3 pin component under the resistor with 1003 on it, the component is broken, most likely this blew.
However as you have replaced the pcb then yes it does point towards something else.
 
I've put some pictures of the momentary rocker switch below, and a cct diagram. Using the dmm, all I could see was pressing the rocker broke the connection between the black wire pin, and the two pins in the middle that are bridged together. Didn't appear to be any continuity with the end led pin (neon not led?). So maybe the neon has blown and broke the connection?

4d034866009c340b1a09a9e2a53cb475_1400x.jpg


Numatic-Compatible-Henry-Hi-Lo-Momentary-Red--3.JPG


Numatic-Compatible-Henry-Hi-Lo-Momentary-Red--2.JPG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top