hinges for shed

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Hello

So, I am building a new workshop/shed/work area. Anyway, it will mostly only hold a moveable workbench with a table saw inside and a mitre saw. When I need more room, I plan to have the bench roll outside where I will have 8x12ft area to work in, if I need more space, I can then roll the bench outside of the property and use the driveway area behind my home.

So, my original idea was to have the doors removable so I can have more room, I am still hoping for this idea, but open to other options.

I was thinking of having a sliding doors that would come off one end of the shed, but now thinking of using heavy duty gate hinges that I can lift the doors on/off when needed. This is my current thinking.

The doors are going to be heavy, so I am wondering what would you do?

Doors will be made with 3x2 cls, with osb 18mm thick and then will have cladding added in the near future, when I get some after the shed is finished structurally.

I am starting to build the doors today and hoping to get it finished by the end of next week. (I am disabled, autistic, in a lot of pain… I take morphine daily) so I can only do a bit here and there. But hoping to get the structure finished by next weekend. I have to work out how to do the roof next too…

So, do you know of any good hinges that would allow the doors to be removed when needed, but somehow secure so anyone else can’t take the doors off easily? I am also thinking maybe doors that can open 270° but not essential.

Thank you

Oh, any tips on installing too would be a great help, thank you
 
"T" hinges grind off the pin tops push the pins out and replace with a bolt or nail
 
I have just came across these, Merriway BH06852 (2 Pcs) Gate Hinges Heavy Duty Hook and Band Cranked Necked Black 350mm (14 Inch) - Pack of 2 Pieces https://amzn.eu/d/axHPGxX

I have 2 questions, how would I secure it so a thief can’t or find it hard to remove, and how strong is the metal, I got some heavy duty hinges like this from the big orange store… and they snapped in half so easily… but the store refused to return as I “didn’t follow instructions” I even brought a new pack and showed them they break even when you try by hand, they were so fragile, a slight bend they would snap… they still refused refunds…


One other question I do have regarding the doors, braces, how would you do it? Would 1 brace be enough or would 2 be required, if 2 how would you do it?
 
if the door is cative in an opening with material like planking stopping the door from lifting clear until opening its not a problem with basic security
 
Sorry, I am a bit confused here.

the doors will open outward…
 
if the door is cative in an opening with material like planking stopping the door from lifting clear until opening its not a problem with basic security

Sorry, I am a bit confused here.

the doors will open outward…
What big-all is attempting to say is that the doors when closed are held captive (i.e. inside) the door frame so cannot be lifted up more than the gap between the door and the frame head (top member). When the doors are opened outwards the doors will now be free to be lifted up.

This is the hinge type you require - for double doors a pair of Left hand and a pair of Right hand. Use the biggest (longest) ones you can find with the substantial weight of door you are thinking about. Use Bolts rather than screws to fix.

Door braces - If I understand your comments correctly you intend to make a door frame out of 3x2 (38x63mm finished size) faced with 18mm sheet. 1 brace from the bottom hinge side to the top open side. Are you Mortise & Tenoning or Lap Having the corner joints? either way I suggest you dowel them for extra strength.
 
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Lifting the doors on and off will be a pain in the bum, don't do it.

Think of another way.
Maybe doors that can swing somewhere out the way
Sliding door
Roller door
Up and over garage door
Wooden bi-fold doors


etc
 
Sorry, I am a bit confused here.

the doors will open outward…
yes indeed in normal operation the doors will open out
iff your doors have say 150mm free and open space above and are not restricted by locks or other structures to move up then your doors can be lifted off the hinges and insecure and able to be removed for theft ??
but in general a closed door will not easily lift off hinges as long as the structure above or lock side action restricts lifting
 
Hello

so, been talking with my mum as I have realised there is a huge problem. The hinges will not fit the design of the doors to the building as my doors are on the outside not built inside.

I believe my mum has come up with a solution, having the hinges on the inside of the doors.

I have done a quick sketch, so you can see what I mean, if you know of any other way.
IMG_9481.jpeg




so, the doors won’t be on the inside as shown above, but on the outside as shown above, with the hinges sandwiched between the doors and the frame… is there any other way to do this?
 
those hinges are designed to go on the frame and cranked back to hold the doof flush with the face
assuming your frame is perhaps 63mm possibly a little bit less theres room to adjust
remember those hinges will work as the opening door is held away from the wall its approaching

you confusion suggests you are thinking off the cranked hinges throwing the doors forward rather than back
 
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This would mean you couldn't take the doors off, but what about heavy duty ball bearing hinges? In the right place, to doors would fold back over 180 degrees. I'm I'm not sure what how much weight they could hold though - I'm sure other could advise.

Alternatively, you could have sliding doors with a rail supported at either end by a post so that you have the full width available when both are open. The does depend on if you have the space. (hopefully a - not to scale - drawing below).
sliding doors.png
 
Hello

so, my sketches are not great, but may help you understand my problem.

IMG_0522.jpeg
 
What big-all is attempting to say is that the doors when closed are held captive (i.e. inside) the door frame so cannot be lifted up more than the gap between the door and the frame head (top member). When the doors are opened outwards the doors will now be free to be lifted up.

If you can push the hinge pins up and out, you don't need to lift the door. A crook can remove the pins and pull the hinge side of the door towards themselves. That assumes that the door doesn't have security bolts in the door edge and frame.

Hello

so, been talking with my mum as I have realised there is a huge problem. The hinges will not fit the design of the doors to the building as my doors are on the outside not built inside.

I believe my mum has come up with a solution, having the hinges on the inside of the doors.

I have done a quick sketch, so you can see what I mean, if you know of any other way.View attachment 306413



so, the doors won’t be on the inside as shown above, but on the outside as shown above, with the hinges sandwiched between the doors and the frame… is there any other way to do this?

You are starting the shed from scratch.

Why can't you use rising butt hinges?


With the door fully open you will be able to lift them off.

I don't quite understand why you need to be able to lift them off though. I have no idea of the dimensions or weight, but it seems like a lot of bother to gain a few inches.
 
So, after some research, you guys, and my mum, I am not having the doors removable.

I am going to use some gate t hinge fence/gate hardware. Just regular t hinges, so just going down the simple route for now... if I want to I can always upgrade the hinges.

So, are we all happy for the hinges to be sandwiched in between gate/door and face of the fence? I am also installing what I can only describe as old style pub locks, door on left side, will have a slide bolt at the top and bottom, going into the frame of the shed, with, the second door, closing up to the first door, then having a lock that connects to the first door.
 
general comments

if space is restricted then removable doors may help
now i simply dont have removable doors in my set up buuuuuttt
with say two folding trellises a door say 1.8 by 1.2m can make a fantastic work bench providing at least 12mm cladding on say 20mm x100mm structural frame as long as support from trellis and structure off door match up
 
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