Hive for Glow Worm Ultimate 120ff. No CH

[Jim1050]

Hi, I've recently replaced our Honeywell controller and thermostat (approx 20yrs old) for Hive Active V3 (dual controller).

The hot water works fine however although the boiler fan kicks in on activating the heating there is no ignition.

All Hive status lights are as they should be.

I've included a pic of the original controller wiring and diagram along with a connections diagram form the Hive manual.

A pic of my wiring to the Hive is also included (post-it note labels will be coming off).

Any advice would be gratefully received!

Thank you.

 

[stem]

Something sounds odd to me here. There is only a one wire signal from the heating that tells the boiler to operate. Then the boiler circuitry starts the fan, ignites the pilot light, checks that its lit and fires up the burner. Hive doesn't do any of that, it's all down to the boiler.

When you installed the Hive, the boiler wiring shouldn't have been disturbed at all, so nothing should have changed there. Was it working correctly before the Hive was installed?

If the Hive is starting the boiler fan, but the boiler isn't igniting, that suggests that there is a problem with the boiler, but if that was the case, it wouldn't be working properly when the hot water switches it on, which you say it is. So, are you absolutely sure that the Hive causes only the boiler fan to come on?

Here are some things I would consider.

1. What normally goes wrong is with the removal of the original room thermostat. It cannot be just disconnected otherwise the heating wiring will remain 'open circuit' and the heating won't come on. So, the old thermostat live switching wires need to be bridged to complete the circuit. However, if this is the case and your description is of what is happening is correct, nothing would be coming on, including the boiler fan.

2. You don't give any details of the type of heating system you have. Do you have an very old system with pumped central heating and gravity circulation of hot water? If you do, the Hive needs to be set to being Gravity / Part Pumped.

Don't use this setting if you have a fully pumped system, or one that has motorised valves.

3. Have you waited a minute or two for the boiler to ignite in case it is still hot from heating the hot water?

4. Have you done any other work at the same time? An airlock in the radiator pipes could stop hot water leaving the boiler and so the boiler wouldn't ignite.

I see it's your first post so welcome to the forum. For future reference your post would have been better in the Plumbing and Central Heating forum were the experts in this field hang out.

The DIY Disasters forum instructs:

"This forum is for posts about disasters you have experienced. General questions or queries should be posted in the appropriate forum section"

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Sounds like a motorised valve failure, coincidentally failed at the time of replacing the programmer or beforehand.

 

[stem]

In which case it still wouldn't start just the boiler fan......And this is the bit I'm struggling with. . We need a bit more info from the OP

 

[Jim1050]

Many thanks for the replies. We've only just moved in to the house.

If it helps, I've added a pic of the boiler/expansion tank and one of the hot water cylinder in the uostairs airing cupoboard.

No other work has been done as far as I'm aware and yes, I've waited a few minutes for it to kick in, still no ignition.

 

[Ihavenojob]

Many thanks for the replies. We've only just moved in to the house.

If it helps, I've added a pic of the boiler/expansion tank and one of the hot water cylinder in the uostairs airing cupoboard.

No other work has been done as far as I'm aware and yes, I've waited a few minutes for it to kick in, still no ignition.

Can you see a spark through the spyhole? Thes boilers are notorious for the ignition lead shorting out where it passes through the case seal causing intermittent ignition faults.