Hive Install

[Matthewsflower]

I've read several threads on here about Hive installs, seems to be a fairly popular DIY job!
I've also watched a few YouTube videos -and decided I would buy: https://www.screwfix.com/p/hive-active-heating-hot-water-thermostat/5215j?_requestid=284429

This may be a stupid question but want to make sure I am doing this right, on the Hive wiring diagram is shows Hot Water off (1) and heating off (2) as you will see in the attached my current Randall 922 has common connected, but no off terminal - is common off or do I need to put both common and live into the single terminals (1&2) on the hive?

I have also read about bridging the existing thermostat, whilst I can appreciate it is bad practice behind this wall is my garage. I can safely leave the wire in situ and just connect Live to terminal 3 and cap off the neutral?

 

[AndyPRK]

A lot of houses don’t have an off wire. So in this case leave off terminal empty.

I guess you have some extra looped common wires. Which aren’t required always on most systems. Remove them.

Just put the thermostat to maximum while you get the hive working

 

[Matthewsflower]

Thanks I appreciate that answer, I would of connected them all!
Maybe I can trace the common wires and remove them completely if they are unneccessary

 

[ericmark]

The Randall unit is what is called volt free, it can work just as well with 24 volts as 230 volts, so step one is find out the voltage to terminal 2 and 5 which is not easy as no reference point to measure to, so it may mean removing boiler cover, or finding a wiring centre or reading info on motorised valves.

There are two basic types of motorised valve, 2 port and 3 port, and the standard way is for the programmer and thermostats to power motorised valves, and then the valves turn on boiler once they have opened, so if the valves are 230 volt then likely Hive will work.

It seems from picture 2 linked to L which is good, but 5 I can't work out.

The Randall unit has a dip switch I think this changes the programmer from 10 to 16 options, seems a lot be off is counted as option, the Hive also has options, but is wired different. In gravity mode Hive has one set of contacts to boiler and other to pump, this is not how the old Randall is wired.

If you have S plan or Y Plan likely not problem, just the C Plan which may cause one. Your likely OK as N connected on thermostat, with a 24 volt system often N not connected, but can't be sure until you have checked.

 

[Matthewsflower]

Appreciate your help, its 230 volts as there is a sticker on the wiring centre reading danger

With regards to the valves, how would I go about finding this out?

 

[bernardgreen]

Appreciate your help, its 230 volts as there is a sticker on the wiring centre reading danger

There will be 230 volts in the wiring centre supplying power to the boiler pump valves etc. etc. That does not mean the control voltages from thermostats programmers etc etc. to the boiler are also 230 volts. Control circuits can be 24 volts.

A dual channel Hive cannot be used on boilers with 24 volt controls as there is a connection to Live 230 volts inside the Hive receiver

 

[Matthewsflower]

Guessing its not a DIY job then and I'll get an electrician in as clearly I'm out of my depth.

I thought it would just be a case of swapping the cables over and bridging the thermostat as mentioned above.....looks like it's a lot more complex than that!

 

[Matthewsflower]

You would not believe how hard it is to photograph these stickers

 

[AndyPRK]

If your common wires goto the L terminal it is not a worry.

We can see one does. Your Hw
And you have a mains switches stat so that’s not a worry either

 

[ericmark]

It is unusual for the motorised valves to be 24 volt normally they are 230 volt, and one of yours is clearly 230 volt the other one also seems 230 volt so should be no problem. However to simply say swap also wrong do need to check first.

What is DIY? I do my own electrics in my own house, except for when I need a completion or compliant certificate, so they are DIY, and many of my radio ham friends will do their own too, I am wary as I may be an electrical engineer, but I am 69, so at some point repairs will be beyond my ability, so I want to keep it standard as much as possible or if not ensure there are good as built plans for what there is. I have to accept the heating engineer I get to repair my home in the future may not be able to work out what I have done.

And to be fair I could not work out how the system was going to work when I bought the house, so reused cables but rewired the central heating control. There had clearly been a radio linked thermostat I found the base, never have found the thermostat.

We on a forum have no way of working out your skill, and we tend to think people are like our selves, I have never done a plumbing course, but have wiped lead pipes, not sure if copper and plastic are technically plumbing, plumbing comes from Latin word for lead. But I have also worked with copper, and plastic and steel are used with electrics anyway.

However I know my skill is limited and got a guy to do the pipe work for me. Tempted to call him a pipe fitter, but seen pipe fitters working on heavy wall 36 inch steel pipes, and they are extremely skilled, so would not use same name, however I also work with firemen and as name suggests they light fires and keep them stoked up, they only put them out at end of day, we don't call the people who put out fires anti-firemen.

Anyway only you can know your skill, to me it seems easy, but been around wires all my life.

So E N L all like for like then (Water) [1 (off) 2(com)] not used with Hive 3(on) = Hive (4) (Heating) [4(off) 5(com)] not used with Hive 6 (on) = Hive (4) and the link wire L to 2 and 2 to 5 no longer required.

The old thermostat move the grey wire with brown sleeve off 3 to be with the brown wire on L and replace thermostat. All it does is mark where cables are.

That should work, as far as I can see.

 

[Matthewsflower]

So E N L all like for like then (Water) [1 (off) 2(com)] not used with Hive 3(on) = Hive (4) (Heating) [4(off) 5(com)] not used with Hive 6 (on) = Hive (4) and the link wire L to 2 and 2 to 5 no longer required.

The old thermostat move the grey wire with brown sleeve off 3 to be with the brown wire on L and replace thermostat. All it does is mark where cables are.

That should work, as far as I can see.

Thank you, really appreciate all your help.
The thermostat is broken so I didn't agree with the above "turn it all the way up" comment but didn't want to be ungrateful

Will probably have a go at it next weekend; I'm not an engineer like yourself but have done a few electrical bits and pieces around my house and also like to learn so am willing to try stuff before calling out a trade.
Appreciate that may seem quite flippant with regards to water and electrics!

I'll make sure I post photos of my completed installation and happy wife ha ha