Hive Thermostat and Receiver

[xJames1999]

Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated.

Back story:
I purchased a house with a 2020 Baxi 600 heat only boiler and it had the original 1980 danfos102 receiver/ timer and no thermostat, so thought I’d fit a hive system as they seemed good.

The issue:
The central heating comes on fine and radiators get warm but I can’t get any hot water from the system. Both rings on the receiver light up green when pressed but only the central heating button makes the boiler turn on, if I press the water on the receiver or thermostat nothing happens, the boiler doesn’t fire up and then no hot water comes from the taps.

What might be causing this? I’ve tried both gravity fed mode on the hive and the default modes, neither do anything but central heating works on both.

I’ve attached pictures of how it was wired and I used L+N+slots 3+4 on the hive receiver system

 

[ianmcd]

what system do you have ? post pics of any motorised valves that you have

 

[xJames1999]

Here’s the hot water cylinder with a red valve on the bottom and two red valves on the top left.

I’ll send the boiler system over when I’m home. It’s a BAXI 600 with a Honeywell valve is all I can say for now

 

[xJames1999]

Please see pictures of our entire system.
If anyone can help me Gov et my hive fixed I’d be over the moon!

Is it supposed to be on default or gravity fed for starters? As I don’t see my pumps which would indicate to me that it’s gravity fed?

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Can you post a photo of the hive wiring? The pump could be inside the boiler.

 

[xJames1999]

Sure, attached is the wiring.

 

[ianmcd]

you dont have a gravity HW system, do you only have the one zone valve, That wiring is terrible tidy it up you shouldnt be able to see any copper, that could cause a fire

 

[xJames1999]

I can only see the one valve

 

[ianmcd]

I can only see the one valve

Do you have a wiring centre somewhere ? normally with 2 port valves which you have there would be 2 valves (S Plan) I have however seen systems with only one valve if you post a pic of the wiring inside the wiring centre we will be able to advise you better

 

[ianmcd]

the 102 that you used to have is a gravity HW timer so you will have to set your hive to Gravity HW, the CH selection will open the zone valve, absolute crap you would be better getting the system updated to fully pumped, what you have is a mix match, set the hive to Gravity HW and try swapping the two wires in 3&4 over

 

[xJames1999]

I have some news (good I’m not so sure)

I switched the cables on 3/4, put hive into gravity fed mode with the constant blue light, and the receiver seems to be working, if I press the tap button the boiler now fires up, and if I press the central heating/ fire button, the tap button/ hot water also comes on and the boiler kicks in.

So the boiler now starts whichever button you press, but I dokt know if this is good or not, as I’ve switched 3/4 and maybe it’s not wired up properly now?

I’ve checked the hot water cylinder and the pipes all around it are still stone cold.

I’ve attached a picture of our hold danfoss102, not sure if this is enough to go by to say whether it’s gravity fed or not?

 

[gazfen]

Try swapping 3 and 4 back. If it’s in gravity mode

 

[xJames1999]

Hi Gazfen,

I did try this, and basically, when I’m gravity fed mode, either water comes on and boiler comes on, or heating and water comes on and boiler comes on.

If I change then again, heating come on and water doesn’t and boiler comes on, or water goes on and heating doesn’t and boiler doesn’t work

 

[ian1182]

Sounds like it's working correctly. If pressing the HW button on it's own fires up the boiler that implies the hot water tank is below the thermostat temp. Then when you press the CH button, the boiler fires up because the hot water is still below it's required temp. In gravity mode the HW is tied to the CH, so they both come on together.

You can have either HW or HW+CH, there is no CH only choice. Of course once the tank thermostat & room thermostatare both satisfied the boiler should stop.

More than likely, you just need to wait until the hot water tank gets up to temp.

There is no need to revert the connections.

 

[xJames1999]

Hi Ian,

Thanks for that! I’ll leave it for now and see.
The only issue I’m facing now is (I’ll test it again tomorrow by running hot water longer) but the pipes around the hot water cylinder were all cold, like I would have assumed the pipe from the boiler to the tank at the bottom of the cylinder tank would be hot?