can any one help wired up a new hive thermostat but heating not coming on i have green light at receiver for for both heating and hot water the boiler fires up but just goes off again I've removed old room thermostat and just taped up wires just any 1 help
Do you mean you have wired the receiver near the boiler or wiring centre and are no longer using the thermostat wires?
post pics of what you have and what you have done at the thermostat
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Hive wall thermostats come as single and duel, in both cases it replaces the wall thermostat, but as single that is all it replaces, as duel it also replaces the programmer, I would assume the latter, so likely you have a wiring centre and likely you can remove the original thermostat at the wiring centre, however all we can do is guess, and that is not good enough.
I removed the programmer and room thermostat and wired up receiver where programmer was
there are 4 boxes bottom right hand corner of your post, select upload a file and select the pics then select post reply
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Where the thermostat would connect will depend on what system you have, at moment no idea if combi or system single or duel gas or oil so can't answer.
D
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Do you have the correct Hive? What system are you fitting it to?
There will be two switching wires at the original thermostat, a 'live' and a 'switched live'. When the thermostat is removed, they should be connected together to complete the circuit. If you just disconnect the old thermostat the wiring will be 'open circuit' and the heating won't operate. Joining the two wires together completes the circuit. Any neutral or earth wires should be isolated & insulated separately.
If you don't feel confident to do that, the old thermostat can be left installed and set to maximum. That will stop it interfering with the operation of the Hive.
If you don't feel confident to do that, the old thermostat can be left installed and set to maximum. That will stop it interfering with the operation of the Hive.
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I have that feeling I have seen this post before? It really should be a new thread, as answers to one persons question may not be valid to another persons question, the first thing when changing a thermostat is to find out what type is required, there are three basic ways for a thermostat to connect to a boiler, 230 volt on/off, 24 volt on/off and variable control to the ebus, there may also be some other odd methods, but those three are the most common.
So next is if the boiler can modulate? if it can modulate can you use a modulating thermostat, or can it only be controlled by return water temperature? Then you look at premises, how do you want to control it, with open plan 1980's houses a single central thermostat is likely best, but with houses with doors, likely you want TRV control or fan assisted radiators.
You need to weigh up what you have and decide how to improve, and with a modulating boiler where there is no access to the ebus then likely Hive is a good option, but Hive duel channel is 230 volt control only so depends on the boiler, Hive single channel is volt free.
So Hive single channel receiver needs 4 wires, there will be 5 wires as there is an earth, but that is only parked for future use, you can reduce the wires by one if the control is 230 volt, it is likely it is 230 volt in @Hamilton1985 case as the existing thermostat likely has a compensating resistor which needs 230 volt, but can't simply assume that.
So terminals L, N, 1, and 3 are used with Hive single channel, there may be a link L to 1. But if I try to go further it may confuse the originally poster so best is start a new thread and if there is a wiring diagram on the original programmer or thermostat give a picture showing it, and a picture of the wiring and boiler type or anything that tells us if mains or reduced voltage used to control it. In some cases instructions don't say, so then down to measuring with a meter.
So next is if the boiler can modulate? if it can modulate can you use a modulating thermostat, or can it only be controlled by return water temperature? Then you look at premises, how do you want to control it, with open plan 1980's houses a single central thermostat is likely best, but with houses with doors, likely you want TRV control or fan assisted radiators.
You need to weigh up what you have and decide how to improve, and with a modulating boiler where there is no access to the ebus then likely Hive is a good option, but Hive duel channel is 230 volt control only so depends on the boiler, Hive single channel is volt free.
So Hive single channel receiver needs 4 wires, there will be 5 wires as there is an earth, but that is only parked for future use, you can reduce the wires by one if the control is 230 volt, it is likely it is 230 volt in @Hamilton1985 case as the existing thermostat likely has a compensating resistor which needs 230 volt, but can't simply assume that.
So terminals L, N, 1, and 3 are used with Hive single channel, there may be a link L to 1. But if I try to go further it may confuse the originally poster so best is start a new thread and if there is a wiring diagram on the original programmer or thermostat give a picture showing it, and a picture of the wiring and boiler type or anything that tells us if mains or reduced voltage used to control it. In some cases instructions don't say, so then down to measuring with a meter.
First of all ericmark is correct, you should really have started your own new thread Hi-lacking someone else's is against the forum rules. Don't start a new one now otherwise you will have duplicate threads going and that is also against the rules. Anyway, back to your question.
The timeswitch is actually a Drayton SM1 rebadged as a Scottish Gas EMT2. You don't tell us what it is controlling, so as you are trying to replace it with a single channel Hive, I will assume you have a combi boiler and the timeswitch is only for central heating and that you don't have a hot water cylinder attached to it. [If you do have a hot water cylinder attached to the boiler then you will need the Dual Channel Hive to control the water heating.]
The wiring for the existing timeswitch is as per the diagram below.....
....and as you can see, the Hive Single Channel Version is exactly the same, so they are a straight swap over like for like. Lucky you!
The only other thing that you need to do is to decommission the room thermostat which looks to me like a Danfoss RMT 230. [If it's another model don't proceed and post back details of it] The RMT 230 wiring is:
You now have some options.
1) Either leave the thermostat and its wiring in place and simply add a wire between terminals 1 & 2, so that they are connected together. Or...
2) Disconnect the wires from the terminals of the thermostat and put them into a junction box. The Neutral wire from terminal 4 should be isolated, but the two wires in terminals 1 and 3 should be connected together. Or...
3) The professional way of doing it would be to trace the cable from the old thermostat back to its origin, firstly make a note of where the wires are connected, then disconnect the cable then join together the two terminals where the wires that went to the thermostat terminals 1 and 2 have just been removed from together.
The timeswitch is actually a Drayton SM1 rebadged as a Scottish Gas EMT2. You don't tell us what it is controlling, so as you are trying to replace it with a single channel Hive, I will assume you have a combi boiler and the timeswitch is only for central heating and that you don't have a hot water cylinder attached to it. [If you do have a hot water cylinder attached to the boiler then you will need the Dual Channel Hive to control the water heating.]
The wiring for the existing timeswitch is as per the diagram below.....
....and as you can see, the Hive Single Channel Version is exactly the same, so they are a straight swap over like for like. Lucky you!
The only other thing that you need to do is to decommission the room thermostat which looks to me like a Danfoss RMT 230. [If it's another model don't proceed and post back details of it] The RMT 230 wiring is:
You now have some options.
1) Either leave the thermostat and its wiring in place and simply add a wire between terminals 1 & 2, so that they are connected together. Or...
2) Disconnect the wires from the terminals of the thermostat and put them into a junction box. The Neutral wire from terminal 4 should be isolated, but the two wires in terminals 1 and 3 should be connected together. Or...
3) The professional way of doing it would be to trace the cable from the old thermostat back to its origin, firstly make a note of where the wires are connected, then disconnect the cable then join together the two terminals where the wires that went to the thermostat terminals 1 and 2 have just been removed from together.