My original before moving house was an old fridge freezer, bulbs in the freezer compartment 2 x 8W, and a demo underfloor heating tile in fridge (18W), two controllers a MH1210A and a STC 1000 the latter in freezer set to 19°C and the MH1210A set to 24°C in the fridge, so first 5 days in freezer compartment at 19°C then 10 days in fridge at 24°C bottled in 2 litre pop bottles, which would also go in fridge, all being in the garage, and I got consistent results.
I started in kitchen, however kitchen was really too cool, tried to use heater, and thermometer stick on strips, however I would forget to turn on or off, and either over or under temperature, and when the Hoover fridge freezer was condemned as insulation damaged I used that in garage instead with thermostatic control. I thought all I would need is heat, as garage at around 10°C but found the heat from the brewing raised the temperature too much when in the insulated box of the freezer compartment, so had to also use the freezer motor through the STC 1000 to stop over heating.
Today you can get the Inkbird itc 308 which is same as STC 1000 but all built up for you, with two 13 amp sockets one cooling and one heating, but when I started that was not made, found 0.5°C difference between sensor in centre of brew to pressed against side of fermenter under a sponge, so under sponge was method I used.
When I moved house got rid of old fridge freezer so now can only heat, using a body warmer or coat with air lock out of neck works well, in the flat at around 12°C the 18 watt tile is enough to keep the brew warm enough, again start at 19°C then move to 24°C after the fermenting has reduced, I found when I first started in the kitchen in the summer at 24°C start temperature there was a bitter after taste, best option is move to Coopers kits in summer they are from down under and will work OK when hotter, and used British kits in Winter.
I started with glass bottles but to fill 40 bottles is a lot of work, so 2 litre plastic pop bottles easier to fill, and you can test pressure without opening so if bottled too early you can feel the extra pressure and release a bit, and you can drink as much as you like and replace cap. My favourite is Scottish heavy, the more sugar the higher the bitter after taste and the higher the % ABV I found you can get away with 1.5 the sugar recommended but not double, but taste wise a little less sugar and water gives better taste, it is a balance. But unless you have temperature control trying different things does not work as you don't know if what you have added or temperature made the difference, sprayed malt is better than sugar, but the big question is cost, start using two can kits, and the price goes up, and you can end up paying more for home brew than ready made costs.
I know some will try doing it from scratch, but you need a lot of space the grow the grain then malt the grain then mash it and make a beer, so everyone gets some bits done by some one else, and the equipment required gets silly. InkBird temperature controller around £30 well worth while, but even a brew fridge unless you get it from free cycle is going OTT, got my eyes on the chest freezer, but wife say no.
