Honeywell T40 to Hive Thermostat Mini

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Hi there,

First of all, thank you for your time. I'm looking at replacing my Honeywell T40 thermostat which serves pretty much as an on and off function on my home heating, I've a combi Vaillant boiler and the thermostat is wired to 1 (red cable) and 3 (orange cable) terminals, using the current wires can I switch the thermostat to run on a Hive Thermostat Mini?

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I already have a hub from a previous system so ideally I'd like to keep that one and just buy a new thermostat but also open to other suggestions if I can also keep the same wiring. Just to add there's currently no heating zones.
 
Better scrapping the lot and wire Hive receiver near to the boiler. You only have 2 wires connected, with what looks like a neutral, but rather than faffing about, do as I’ve suggested. If you’re doing the irk yourself, be aware that opening up some boilers requires critical safety checks afterwards.
 
Hi Chris, thank you for getting back to me, as I'm doing it myself I don't want to mess around with moving the wiring, is the current wiring compatible with the hive receiver?
 
Not as it is no. You need to at least find out if the blue wire is connected to neutral, as the Hive receiver requires a permanent live and permanent neutral. All you have there is live in and switch on/off.
 
Would this be the same case with other thermostats? If I buy for instance a nest thermostat e would that be the same? I rent a house so ideally I want to keep the same wiring and keep the thermostat in the same place if possible.
 
Nest E would work as would any other battery operated thermostat, as these do not require a neutral. You can get some 2 wire analogue thermostat’s, but would go for battery type. Swap wires for Com and No, job done. Don’t get any ideas of Nest 3rd generation though, as that would need additional alterations ;)
 
Just thinking about this, are there any other battery powered ones that are smart or not that I should consider? As long as I can program a particular time of the day to go on and off I’m ok with that, not sure if there are any recommendations that will be an easy replace to what we’ve already?
 
Probably won’t matter being a switch, but:

Number 1 on existing to number 2 on new
Number 3 on existing to number 1 on new
 
I had the same thermostat in the hallway at the bottom of the stairs and converted it to a newer modern design a couple of years ago. Just recently we had a new boiler installed along with a Hive. The chap installing it fitted a receiver box in the airing cupboard and disconnected the wires running to where the thermostat had been and mounted the cradle for the Hive over the same spot until we get around to decorating again. As the hive is battery powered it can go anywhere you want it to. Our old thermostat was next to the kitchen door so when the oven etc was in use and the kitchen was warm the rest of the house went cold because the heat triggered the thermostat off!
 
I had the same thermostat in the hallway at the bottom of the stairs and converted it to a newer modern design a couple of years ago. Just recently we had a new boiler installed along with a Hive. The chap installing it fitted a receiver box in the airing cupboard and disconnected the wires running to where the thermostat had been and mounted the cradle for the Hive over the same spot until we get around to decorating again. As the hive is battery powered it can go anywhere you want it to. Our old thermostat was next to the kitchen door so when the oven etc was in use and the kitchen was warm the rest of the house went cold because the heat triggered the thermostat off!
The Hive you had fitted required the base to be wired near the boiler, @bob-the-intern has said he does not want to alter wiring, the only wireless thermostat I know where the base is battery powered is the Nest e, all other wireless the base needs 230 volt power.

There are loads of programmable battery powered thermostats, I for years used a Horstmann DT2
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latter replaced with Flomaster ae235.jpg the Horstmann was easy to use, the Flomaster needs combination of buttons and I had to keep the book with it, not intuitive, but both worked well, Horstmann 4 slots per day, Flomaster 6 slots per day. Batteries would last 2 years, but changed them every year as did not want it to fail, the battery indicator on the Horstmann would show good but there was not enough power to work relay, so first indication of discharged batteries was cold house.

The change to programmable was due to changing to LED lighting, pre-LED the inferred from the tungsten bulbs made the room feel warmer when lights were on, so set at 18°C all day, when we changed to LED wanted it 18°C in daylight and 20°C in evening. Does raise the question do LED lights really save energy? But change was because with tungsten changing a bulb every two weeks.
 
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