HONING GUIDES:

Cheap jigs are like cheap tools and almost always require some fettling to make them work (there are several tutorials on the, internet, including one on the Leigh-Nielsen site, or at least there used to be one). If you rock an Eclipse type jig from side to side then your muscle control is poor and you fundamentally need to adjust your jig, then practice, practice, practice... Start with a wide chisel (say a 38 or 50mm) to get the feel - then work downwards in size

@opps - the ProEdge is bloody brilliant. I had both a Makita horizontal wetstone and a Tormek T7 in the past and the ProEdge is faster than both by a considerable margin. Just a bit pricey, though
 
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Muscle control didn't occur to me but I'm in control of most bodily functions! I'm sure the Eclipse guide was very well regarded initially and is far better than cheap repros today. But surely better to have a system that's not reliant on muscle control? I've got a KKR guide that has a 2" wide roller and the chisel is held to its base with a metal plate which is screwed down and clamped on top of the chisel. It's made in Japan which is a rarity - I've never seen another and I bought it (secondhand) as a curio and have never actually used it.
I've seen reviews on the MPower Fasttrack system - it seems fine for sharp chisels that have dulled a little. I don't know if the coarser stones would work on really dull chisels - maybe if you've got a lot of time to spare?
 
RONCHAM said:
Muscle control didn't occur to me but I'm in control of most bodily functions!
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Well, you say that, but how good are you with, say, a hand saw, hand plane, or a chisel? All require a bit of muscle "memory" to use accurately and efficiently, but you don't pick any of those tools up and start using them like a pro from the off, regardless of how many YouTube videos you have watched (trust me, I've seen my share of spprentices...)

RONCHAM said:
I'm sure the Eclipse guide was very well regarded initially and is far better than cheap repros today. But surely better to have a system that's not reliant on muscle control?
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Maybe, but better jigs cost more money. The £60-odd Veritas mk.2 jig is a good example of what a competent jig actually costs (and BTW it registers off the flat back of the chisel, not the potentially out of square/plane front face) - but in any case Veritas now make their own take on the Eclipse jig which comes in at under £35. Just how cheap should a jig be?

TBH if you want to remove the human factor you'll need a grinding machine - or you just need some more practice (and maybe a wee bit of tuning up of your jig)
 
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Actually I'm quite good with a handsaw, partly because I've had a fair amount of practice and partly because the saws have usually been very sharp. Not so with my hand planes and chisels where I've had little practice and the tools weren't ultrasharp. I've got 2 Stanley planes and in my last sharpening frenzy I did a reasonable job of greatly improving them. But I'm not a purist and if I find a power tool that does the same job or better I'm not averse to using it. Recently I bought a mitre saw and used it to cut a number of pieces of 2 x 2. Of course it took a second per cut and would've taken a couple of minutes with a handsaw plus I would've been puffed. And of course it was deadly accurate. I've also got 2 routers and they do jobs where a chisel may have been used instead - hinge recesses etc. TBH sharpening chisels is more of an ambition than a need to use them - I've seen too many of the "scary sharp" videos and unfortunately been brainwashed by them! When I can slice through paper with a chisel I'll let you know!
 
JobAndKnock said:
@opps - the ProEdge is bloody brilliant. I had both a Makita horizontal wetstone and a Tormek T7 in the past and the ProEdge is faster than both by a considerable margin. Just a bit pricey, though
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I have been checking out a certain auction site. I don't need the "pro" version given that I will only be sharpening regular chisels. If I wait long enough, I hope to get one, in reasonable condition for just over £200 (ex delivery).

It was you that opened my eyes to linishers, for which I thank you.

I only have about 15 chisels but the nature of my work means that I am likely to hit either hidden screws or nails. Spending an hour on my Record wet wheel to grind a chisel back during lock down was happy compromise- I had no where else to go at the time in the evenings. I don't drink in the house, but I allowed myself to have a few tinnies in the garage...

BTW which grades of belt would you recommend?
 
RONCHAM said:
Actually I'm quite good with a handsaw...
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So you'll understand how some processes are easier/produce better results with repetition...

RONCHAM said:
When I can slice through paper with a chisel I'll let you know!
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Obviously not a traditionalist approach, then - the old school method requires that you shave the back of your arm to test sharpness...

So beware joiners with hairy arms - they obviously can't cut butter with their chisels!
 
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opps said:
BTW which grades of belt would you recommend?
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For tool steel something like P60, P120 and P240 aluminium oxide and maybe an Trizact belt at 600 for polishing, and possibly even a 1200 grit belt above that. I rarely need the 600 and even less often use the 1200 - but then I'm not a cabinetmaker. If you have any HSS tools (e.g turning tools or some of the L-N or Veritas planes) you may need to.look at ceramic belts. So for most general use just three alox belts. No need to buy OEM belts - there are a lot of abrasive suppliers selling compatible belts (and this doesn't mean cheap knock off Chinese ones)
 
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