The stud is 2.3m tall (x4m). I was going to use 1.2m wide sq edge. Is there a best practice re vertical or horizontal.
Thank you
Dain
Thank you
Dain
Horizontal or vertical plasterboard sheets on stud wall?
- Thread starter Draughtsman
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Lay them as you planned, only a small trim off the top then and nice square edges to butt up to
with few exceptions, plasterboard on studs always goes on horizontal.
among the advantages of going horizontal are you have better control of boards at openings.
the first sheet goes high so you always have a full sheet at eye level, and any cuts are at the bottom to be covered by skirting etc.
among the advantages of going horizontal are you have better control of boards at openings.
the first sheet goes high so you always have a full sheet at eye level, and any cuts are at the bottom to be covered by skirting etc.
Thank you,
Do I need noggins to take screws along the horizontal edges of the boards?
Which side of the board gets skimmed?
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Those noggins are approx either side of the 1200 mark. I don't remember ceilings having edge of board support noggins but I could be wrong..
With few exceptions boards always go vertical on studs be them metal or timber. Exceptions typically being board type i.e. 'plank' ,stud centres or mitigating waste on multiple 'skin' partitions etc.
Ceilings, the opposite is true and boards should always run perpendicular to joists.
Judging by the photo if the wall is 4m then my best guess the studs are at 450mm centres?
The best solution would have been to centre studs at either 400 or 600mm centres to accommodate 1200mm boards. Tapered edge fixed vertically would allow a near perfect finish with 'tape and joint' with no horizontal joints.
As it is, I would always advocate tapered edge boards even if they're to be skimmed. A good plasterer will always 'flatten' the joints prior to skimming anyway without any drama. With a tapered edge board they allow for slight distortion, especially so with timber stud. If the stud with a board abutment is slightly out of square, there will be a 'step' in the joint. A tapered edge helps mitigate this.
Ceilings, the opposite is true and boards should always run perpendicular to joists.
Judging by the photo if the wall is 4m then my best guess the studs are at 450mm centres?
The best solution would have been to centre studs at either 400 or 600mm centres to accommodate 1200mm boards. Tapered edge fixed vertically would allow a near perfect finish with 'tape and joint' with no horizontal joints.
As it is, I would always advocate tapered edge boards even if they're to be skimmed. A good plasterer will always 'flatten' the joints prior to skimming anyway without any drama. With a tapered edge board they allow for slight distortion, especially so with timber stud. If the stud with a board abutment is slightly out of square, there will be a 'step' in the joint. A tapered edge helps mitigate this.
That stud is made of 1.2m wide panels, you can see the vertical CLS is doubled up where one panel is screwed to the next. This leaves a narrow strip down the left which might have to be bonded and skimmed.
I wish I'd put more screws into the frame to frame connections, I might fire a bunch more in where I can.
So you would edge screw in the taper itself, maybe at a slight angle to stay perp to the surface?
OP,
You and any others following this are being advised well wrong:
For a number of reasons plasterboard is always fixed horizontal to studding, do not try and re-invent a trade practice thats used across the world of drywall.
Why give yourselves extra work and possible difficulties?
I've even fixed 12ft and 16ft lengths - they can be life savers in residential work, and a must in commercial jobs.
Try hanging them vertical.
No matter the type or length of board used it goes on horizontal.
You and any others following this are being advised well wrong:
For a number of reasons plasterboard is always fixed horizontal to studding, do not try and re-invent a trade practice thats used across the world of drywall.
Why give yourselves extra work and possible difficulties?
I've even fixed 12ft and 16ft lengths - they can be life savers in residential work, and a must in commercial jobs.
Try hanging them vertical.
No matter the type or length of board used it goes on horizontal.
Gyproc sheets are fixed to studs vertically! allowing all edges to be screwed to a stud.
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So you lift it 4 feet up in the air and whip the screws in quick?
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To the thread:
USG United States Gypsum the biggest producer of materials, and trainer of drywall installers in the world, trains and inspects work done exactly as i advised above.
fwiw: A simple check on you tube will show the same. Do a count not a selection.
Vertical is used on metal studding for particular purposes but there are occasions where horizontal is also used on metal.
Your examples were both selling metal studding
USG United States Gypsum the biggest producer of materials, and trainer of drywall installers in the world, trains and inspects work done exactly as i advised above.
fwiw: A simple check on you tube will show the same. Do a count not a selection.
Vertical is used on metal studding for particular purposes but there are occasions where horizontal is also used on metal.
Your examples were both selling metal studding
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Probably the worst advice given on this site...nearly as bad as the thread he advised a poster to cover over a gas vent.
Should really be banned again.
Indeed the board is horizontal, lifted and screwed - as per USG but it can also be vertical, same website same instruction paragraph showing timber studding. FWIW USG=NFG to us in UK OK ree ? Don't bother trying to Vinndicate yourself , bobarsed.
Ignore button time!
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