How can I replace these plasterboard cavity screws?

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Hi there, I've used the forums before but couldn't find an answer to this specific problem.

Quite a while ago our kitchen was part renovated, including putting up timber shelves on external walls. It's a newish build and the interior side of the walls are plasterboard, with cavity behind.

The shelves have held up well since going up, but recently I made the mistake of putting some of my own weight on one of the shorter shelves, and the shelf came down tearing the fixings out with it.

PXL_20230401_121224184.PORTRAIT.jpg


PXL_20230401_121146239.jpg


The fixings look like plasterboard/cavity screws to me, and they've left behind sizeable holes. Because the shelves are all in an equally-spaced configuration, I'd really like to use the same position of the wall if possible, ie reusing the same holes.

I know that doesn't sound great, but is there a good solution to this? I don't think a good repair to the plasterboard is possible, so I was considering using a different kind of fixing, perhaps one which extends 'wings' on the other side of the board.

Any recommendations?
 
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Is this an external wall? What is behind the plasterboard? Is it blockwork? What size is the gap between the back of the plasterboard and face of the blockwork, assuming it is blockwork?
 
Zip Fix, just poke them through the existing holes, easy.


 
Zip Fix, just poke them through the existing holes, easy.


Similar notion to the zip fix:


I think the OP needs to poke a drill bit in to the hole to find out what the diameter is before buying either of the above.

Neither will work if the hole is too big for the fitting.

That said, if the OP can lower/raise the shelf by 1", he can use either given that he will be missing the old holes. That said, @robinbanks interset fixings tend to have very wide heads on the machine screws but have the advantage of distributing the load in two directions.


You could drop toggle bolts thru the holes .

Just my preference but I hate those. If you remove the fitting, the ends fall in the cavity. Yeah they are cheap, but if you remove the fitting at 6 pm and discover that toggles were used, you are stuffed.
 
if you remove the fitting at 6 pm and discover that toggles were used, you are stuffed.
Ever tried loading them up with Sticks Like / No Nails before fitting? Just thought it may prevent that "falls in the cavity" problem..
 
Ever tried loading them up with Sticks Like / No Nails before fitting? Just thought it may prevent that "falls in the cavity" problem..

Sorry, I don't quite follow. I was moaning about the fact that the sprung loaded toggles only fold in one direction. If you remove the screw, you have to accept that the toggle part cannot pass back through the hole and is lost in the void.

The advantage of the fittings that you and @scbk recommended is that the screws can be removed as and when required.

That said, it the OP's holes are too big for the above fittings, @foxhole 's toggles will probably be ideal.
 
the toggle part cannot pass back through the hole and is lost in the void.
Ibwas theorising that if it's loaded up with sticky stuff when installed then it may end up glued to the substrate on the other side of the hole, and doesn't fall into the void when the screws is removed..
 
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