Hi, I'm inexperienced with plumbing but keen to give it a go... also female so don't have man strength or many tools, but have a few! My toilet makes loud foghorn pipe noises after flushing that is resolved when I lift up the ballcock arm. I think the washer may need replacing (after googling it), but I think it might be easier for me to replace the whole ballcock/valve thing. Two questions: 1. is it easy enough for for an inexperienced (though very practical) person like me to tackle? 2. What tools will I need? I think I need a tool/spanner to undo the plastic nut underneath the cistern, anything else? Thanks for any help! I could call a plumber but I'd feel annoyed it it's a simple job that I could manage!
How hard is it to replace ballvalve in toilet?
- Thread starter traceylattimore
- Start date
you will need a large and a medium adjustable wrench.
They don't need to be very high quality ones, you can usually pick up a set of three in DIY sheds, hardware stores, even supermarkets.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/adjustable-wrench-set-3pcs/76354
or
http://www.robertdyas.co.uk/draper-3-piece-adjst-wrnch-set
Don't use these cheap ones on your car or valuable machinery. Really good ones cost much more.
Post a pic of your old one please. It might be side-feed or bottom feed. Side is easier.
You can get a new one of modern design which can be very quiet.
They don't need to be very high quality ones, you can usually pick up a set of three in DIY sheds, hardware stores, even supermarkets.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/adjustable-wrench-set-3pcs/76354
or
http://www.robertdyas.co.uk/draper-3-piece-adjst-wrnch-set
Don't use these cheap ones on your car or valuable machinery. Really good ones cost much more.
Post a pic of your old one please. It might be side-feed or bottom feed. Side is easier.
You can get a new one of modern design which can be very quiet.
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D
durhamplumber
ROFL..Like most things in life its easy when you know how and have the correct tools.I certainly would not advise diy toilet repairs after reading a post on here.Quite often,especially now with so many diabolically poor plastic fittings,things go wrong and you could certainly have the ceiling down quite rapidly..Just saying!!!!.
D
durhamplumber
£40 to get a plumber in.how much to drive to shops..buy tools etc..if it all goes t..ts up im sure your house insurance??? provider will be delighted to hear of your antics.
Thanks very much JohnD for your advice. Attached is a picture. It's a bottom-feed cistern. I wondered whether I should replace like for like (because the fit should be the same) or whether to get one of the newer styles? I'd like to give it a go if I can – I've done quite a bit of DIY in the past.
Attachments
If quite handy at DIY then this is an pretty easy job.
Buy one of these -
http://www.diy.com/departments/fluidmaster-pro-fill-valves/34489_BQ.prd
and a 1/2" tap fibre washer
Turn off cold water
Flush toilet
Sponge out any water left
Disconnect supply pipe from bottom of valve, change the fibre washer on the supply pipe connector
Remove plastic nut securing old fill valve to cistern with adjustable spanner and remove
Dry off inside cistern at the valve hole
Fit new valve, orientate so the float doesn't catch on the flush syphon body, rubber washer on the inside, tighten plastic nut up hand tight (see instructions for nut orientation and if pressure reducing insert is needed) then a further full turn with adjustable spanner/grips - hold fill valve so it doesn't twist when tightening.
Attach supply pipe - with new fibre washer already fitted.
Turn on and adjust float level to fill cistern correctly (see instructions).
Check for leaks at nut to cistern and at supply connector to fill valve brass shank.
Buy one of these -
http://www.diy.com/departments/fluidmaster-pro-fill-valves/34489_BQ.prd
and a 1/2" tap fibre washer
Turn off cold water
Flush toilet
Sponge out any water left
Disconnect supply pipe from bottom of valve, change the fibre washer on the supply pipe connector
Remove plastic nut securing old fill valve to cistern with adjustable spanner and remove
Dry off inside cistern at the valve hole
Fit new valve, orientate so the float doesn't catch on the flush syphon body, rubber washer on the inside, tighten plastic nut up hand tight (see instructions for nut orientation and if pressure reducing insert is needed) then a further full turn with adjustable spanner/grips - hold fill valve so it doesn't twist when tightening.
Attach supply pipe - with new fibre washer already fitted.
Turn on and adjust float level to fill cistern correctly (see instructions).
Check for leaks at nut to cistern and at supply connector to fill valve brass shank.
Thanks Madrab! Brilliant step-by-step instructions. Will give it a go. 
+1
and the B&Q price is very good.
Even Screwfix is more today http://www.screwfix.com/p/fluidmaster-bottom-entry-brass-shank-fill-valve/47792
You may see a similar-looking Fluidmaster a bit cheaper, but it will probably be the one without the brass shank. The all-plastic one can easily be damaged if you get the bottom fixing nut cross-threaded.
and the B&Q price is very good.
Even Screwfix is more today http://www.screwfix.com/p/fluidmaster-bottom-entry-brass-shank-fill-valve/47792
You may see a similar-looking Fluidmaster a bit cheaper, but it will probably be the one without the brass shank. The all-plastic one can easily be damaged if you get the bottom fixing nut cross-threaded.
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Thanks everyone for all your kind help and advice - pleased to report that I fitted the new ball valve this morning, all fine, easy job and took me less than an hour from start to finish, including reading and re-reading fitting instructions and having a cuppa midway! Chuffed that I did it, thanks to your good advice
