How to connect water supply to high level cistern

[Lola Giwa]

We have installed a high level cistern with copper pipe water supply (we prefer the look of this to a flexible connector) but the compression nut wont screw onto the male plastic inlet and is ruining the thread. When the water supply is turned on, we get a leak!

What do we need to do? Considering getting a plastic push fit straight tap connector, but it would be a tight fit with the compression valve.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[terryplumb]

Are you using an olive in that fitting, if so you don't !!
Looks like you have possibly cross threaded the plastic thread ,and may now need a new valve.
The correct fitting would be a tap connector 1/2 in BSP thread. And an end feed ( solder) version will take minimal space.
By the way your isolation valve is fitted the wrong way around. The arrow should point in the direction of flow.

 

[JohnD]

throw it away and buy one with a brass shank.

Sorry.

If you photograph the float valve we might know a similar one.

 

[Lola Giwa]

Thank you both!

@JohnD I have attached the current valve which looks a bit like the first pic do you think?

@terryplumb that is exactly what we were looking for- the olive was a bad idea! Thanks for spotting the valve- luckily it's working!

 

[JohnD]

yes, a brass ballcock will do you fine. The washer and cone will need replacing in about 30 years when worn out, easy to do. It will probably come with a brass flanged nut, which will look in keeping and you can polish it each time you do the copper pipes.

Ask for a "part 2" valve which has the plastic bridge over the top.

If you can get a Pegler, it costs a couple of pounds more but is about the best.

You probably need the High Pressure (water mains) cone, unless your water supply comes from a loft tank (low pressure).

 

[Madrab]

If you are going to connect copper to a side entry valve you will need one of these on the end of that pipe.

End feed tap connector.

 

[Nige F]

.

 

[Lola Giwa]

Thank you guys- we have sorted the plumbing! Next problem is how to fix the pan to the floor.. The standard fixing kit os not the right shape and the fixing holes on the oan are angled, so we can't just screw it straight into the floor! Any ideas? @Madrab @JohnD @terryplumb

 

[terryplumb]

Looks like screws , go through at an angle into the floor ?? Don't need anything else . Drilling through tiles and not knowing whats below ( electric cables ,water pipes etc) can be quite risky. You could always bond pan to floor with silicone .

 

[Deleted member 267285]

The L bracket to me is for ones where the screw holes are on the side, standard pan fixing kit would seem logical.

 

[Madrab]

Brass screws are what you use, they don't rust.

You will need to drill the tile though, is it wood below? As @Chris_W mentions you'll need to be sure there's nothing under there to screw into. There should never be anything run under a toilet (pipe/cable) but you need to be sure.

Does the toilet sit flat onto the tile, it doesn't rock about?

 

[dilalio]

Stick it down with CT1 and blob some plastic screw caps over the holes with same silicone.

 

[Lola Giwa]

So guys, I hoped to have a video of the toilet pan perfectly glued to the floor and the cistern working for you all but alas.. We got a brass float valve and end connector like you suggested, but those wedges are the only way we can stop it leaking! Think it might be because the pipe line isn't exactly straight.. Might just leave it like this though!!

 

[HERTS P&D]

Your water level is too high.

Andy

 

[terryplumb]

There should be a large rubber washer inside the cistern. It fits between the big nut and the cistern wall. Is it in place ?
As Andy days above ,the water level is too high if it reaches upto the valve inlet ,which it must be to leak out of the cistern.
Your overflow shouldn't allow the water level to get that high either.
Post pics of inside the cistern.