How to fit glazing beads without nails showing?

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perky416

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Afternoon all,

Is there a way to fit a timber glazing bead without visible nails?

I have glued the beads on one side of the door, however on the other I was only going to tack them in place in case the window (its perspex) ever needs to be replaced, however as its oak, I don't want to spoil the finish with visible nail heads.

Does something like a 2 sided nail (2 pointy sides) exist or something similar? Or maybe a non permeant adhesive perhaps? Im not sure as to the best method to take.

Thanks
 
There are needle pins and their head is about 1mm in diameter.
They can be pushed right in and little hole filled and stained.
Or, use a nail gun for a neater finish.
 
This what i wanted to avoid the doors arent going to be stained or finished in any way, they are going to be left natural.
 
18 gauge or better 23 gauge pinner, fill the holes with matching colour soft wax (needs to be mixed). 23 gauge is so small it hardly needs filling.

If you insist on leaving oak looking natural the best way to deal with it is to get it sprayed with a couple of coats of water-based clear matt acrylic lacquer, or better still 2-pack or pre-catalysed lacquer (again clear, matt). As an open pore timber dirt will naturally accumulate in the pores of oak which will start to look grubby fairly quickly unless adequately sealed (faitly quickly is a relative term). You simply can't sand it forever - amongst other things I'm currently renovating some 150 year old solid oak doors on a grade 1 listed building, some with glazed panels, some with linen fold carved panels. Had these been sanded every few years there would have been nothing left to conserve many decades ago. Sanding dubs over the edges and eventually leaves an uneven surface because softer areas sand out more readily than harder ones. That's part of why we apply finish to wood surfaces - so you don't need to resand

In addition, exterior windows are subject to condensation which in combination with any ferrous metal (e.g. pins or nails, non-stainless) will result over time in black or red rust staining. Another reason for sealing timber

Double ended nails? But how do you position accurately and how do you make them secure without bruising the timber with your hammer? Non starter
 
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if you do decide to avoid pins around beading please at least pin the head/top bead in as failure off the adhesive can be sudden and disastrous as it stays till the grip is less than needed where as nailed head with the help off gravity can save disaster and is out off the usual point off focus between shoulders and knees
 
big-all said:
if you do decide to avoid pins around beading please at least pin the head/top bead in as failure off the adhesive can be sudden and disastrous...
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Of course you can simply side step the issue by securing the glazing using sprigs. Then you don't need to worry about the beading popping off. When a piece of glass breaks and needs to be replaced not pinning the beads and gluing instead might be a complete PIA to deal with
 
Is this intended as an ornamental door?

Or a sturdy door that would withstand rain and inconvenience a burglar?
 
Glue alone is probably a bad idea. Pin glass then cut space for the pins in the hidden side of bead. Then glue bead. Tight pining might shatter glass during expansion.
 
The doors are effectively external 44m oak doors, but fitted internally.
So i have the porch doors on the outside, step into the porch and then are presented with these doors in question that lead into the house, so no need to be weather proof, i just want them draft proof.
Although the pooch doors will often be left unlocked for deliveries, these doors arent designed to be burglar proof. There will be 2 dogs the other side of them, including a 54kg german shepherd. He is my security lol.

I wont be using glass either, im using frosted perspex for the weight and safety features. I dont want one of the kids to put a golf club through it by accident or something.
 
perky416 said:
I don't want to spoil the finish with visible nail heads.
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On a hardwood door, tiny brass screws will not spoil the appearance. You need to pre-drill pilot holes, and wind in steel screws first to cut the thread.

Bronze screws are even better, but seldom seen, and priced per each or per dozen.

BTW, when I go burgling, I always have a few sausages in my pocket. Dogs love me.
 
My 50kg Shepherd prefers porridge so you wouldn't get too far through my door John
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