How to make safe stained glass (exposed lead)

[Russtavo]

Hello all, can anyone recommend a way to reliably seal the lead on internal stained glass windows/doors to keep them safe from small hands (and mouths!)? Also to prevent lead dust.

I've attached an example of one of my doors. I know I could fit additional glass over and around but wondered if there was any type of clear coating that the lead would not leach into? Some kind of oil, varnish or lacquer? Don't want to make things worse. Thanks all.

 

[bernardgreen]

Silicone Conformal Coating as used to protect electronic equipment would provide protection.

You would need to talk to the manufacturer to learn whether it would be transparent enough and compatible with stained glass windows.

 

[opps]

Surely any exposure to lead will be pretty minimal?

The lead looks to be pretty well oxidised.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I don't know, though I suspect clear coat lacquer as used as a final coat on cars might work and be worth testing. You can buy it from a car paints supplier, in rattle spray cans. I have used it on my polycarbonate headlamps lens's after cleaning and polishing off the opaque layer.

 

[JohnD]

Lead patinating oil

 

[Russtavo]

Surely any exposure to lead will be pretty minimal?

The lead looks to be pretty well oxidised.

Supposedly dust containing lead can accumulate over time. I've got a few windows high up in difficult to clean locations. I'm taking no chances with little ones - i should have done this earlier but it never occurred tbh.
I'm not a fan of working with toxic chemicals like solvents. Wondered if something like raw linseed oil could do the job? On reflection think I will play safe an have them encased in new glass panels. Thanks for all suggestions though.

 

[opps]

Supposedly dust containing lead can accumulate over time. I've got a few windows high up in difficult to clean locations. I'm taking no chances with little ones - i should have done this earlier but it never occurred tbh.
I'm not a fan of working with toxic chemicals like solvents. Wondered if something like raw linseed oil could do the job? On reflection think I will play safe an have them encased in new glass panels. Thanks for all suggestions though.

Fair enough.

Just be warned that you will get dust that eventually builds up in between the glass and stained glass. TBH, I have no idea if the dust that I often see in such situations is just dust or lead dust.

I have just found the following advice

Originally Answered: Is Stained Glass safe?
Yes, having leaded stained glass in your home is safe. Sealing the lead to prevent any dust escaping can be easily done by applying a coat of carnauba car wax to both sides, allowing it to dry and buffing it to a shine.

I guess that the lead dust is the result of the glass rubbing against the inner faces of the lead channels. Those areas will not have been treated with patination oil. The wax suggestion above makes sense because it will fill the small gaps between the glass and lead.

 

[big-all]

i think we need to keep things in proportion
i suspect doing nothing will be as safe as doing something
lead is a heavy metal so cannot float in the air so wiping down window cills after cleaning the windows in my opinion will remove all risk as long as the cloth or paper goes strait in the bin
if you want to take extra care perhaps rubber gloves and a mask but in my oppinion not needed if you wash your hand

 

[Russtavo]

You make a good point big-all. Part of my thinking is that secondary glazing will help with heating bills. Although I have some stained glass windows properly encapsulated in doubled glazed units (very expensive!), there are still some original windows left.

Opps, good find with the wax, that makes sense. Think I will definitely clean and wax them (carefully) before I do any glazing to reduce dust. I'll think on it.

 

[JohnD]

You make a good point big-all. Part of my thinking is that secondary glazing will help with heating bills.

yes, it will, and it will also cut noise.

I have a few times fitted semi-permanent secondary glazing by adding a seating strip to the frame and fixing the glass with glazing bead. it has to be tightly sealed against air from the house, and ventilated by at least a pinhole to the outdoor air filtered with a scrap of mineral woof to exclude dust and insects. This is very worthwhile in a basthroom where the window might otherwise suffer condensation. The reduction is heat loss is very marked.

if the original glass is stained or obscured, it will last for many years without any need to open up the fixing and clean away any dust haze. Otherwise, once in ten years is enough.

 

[Old Salt]

If little ones can reach that glass they are not so little, and big enough to understand not to touch it cos it will kill you

 

[Russtavo]

If little ones can reach that glass they are not so little, and big enough to understand not to touch it cos it will kill you

Tell that to my eldest, she's four but could reach it at two! I make em tall. If I tell her something is dangerous she goes straight for it. Defiant little darling

 

[Russtavo]

yes, it will, and it will also cut noise.

I have a few times fitted semi-permanent secondary glazing by adding a seating strip to the frame and fixing the glass with glazing bead. it has to be tightly sealed against air from the house, and ventilated by at least a pinhole to the outdoor air filtered with a scrap of mineral woof to exclude dust and insects. This is very worthwhile in a basthroom where the window might otherwise suffer condensation. The reduction is heat loss is very marked.

if the original glass is stained or obscured, it will last for many years without any need to open up the fixing and clean away any dust haze. Otherwise, once in ten years is enough.

Thank you so much for that. I was just pondering moisture as potential issue. Confused about the pinhole, sorry I'm dense. If the new glazing is on the inside of the house, the pinhole is where? On the new glass itself?

 

[Russtavo]

Just discovered there is a variety of DIY secondary glazing kits out there (like Magnetglaze) with different types of clips and trims. Think I will go down this road. Thanks all.

 

[Russtavo]

Quick update to this thread, went with 3mm secondary glazing - happy with the results. Any kind of lacquer/sealant would break down over time, this way I can be more confident of long term safety.