How to repair bathroom wall?

[redhexagonal]

I moved the bathroom door frame which meant I need to build out part of the bathroom wall to be level to the frame. I’m thinking of renovating the bathroom soon - is it worth going ahead and overboarding the existing plasterboard with additional standard 9mm board to bring it flush to the frame, or should I wait for the bathroom to be renovated and get it done with that green waterproof plasterboard? Its only an 8 inches wide bit of wall around the door frame, that shouldn’t get splashed much although it does get steamy.

 

[ktuludays]

Are you tiling that wall? Once the architrave goes on the gap would be huge down the side of it.

 

[redhexagonal]

Are you tiling that wall? Once the architrave goes on the gap would be huge down the side of it.

I’m not sure yet, possibly. Yes the gap would be huge behind the architrave which is why I was considering dot and dabbing a piece of 9mm plasterboard on top of the existing board. Just not sure if it needs waterproof board

 

[opps]

I am not totally sure what I am looking at. The door frame header seems to be less deep than the timber on the left. Can you explain in greater detail what you are trying to do?

Do you plan to pack out the header (and presumably, the right hand side vertical part of the frame.

Out of interest, why are you dot and dabbing plasterboard over existing plasterboard? Why not use longer screws?

BTW, if the plasterboard is not in a wet zone, any old plasterboard will be fine so long as it is sealed prior to tilling. I personally would offset the joins on the extra layer of plasterboard. By that I mean you have a join directly above the left hand edge of the frame, I would a piece horizontally above the door frame and then one downwards from there.

 

[redhexagonal]

I am not totally sure what I am looking at. The door frame header seems to be less deep than the timber on the left. Can you explain in greater detail what you are trying to do?

Yes, thats because I haven't put extra timber on the header yet. It will be at the same level as the side. (The frame will then be parallel to the wall opposite, then i’m bringing the wall level to the frame)

 

[redhexagonal]

Out of interest, why are you dot and dabbing plasterboard over existing plasterboard? Why not use longer screws?

Because the existing board is not at right angles to the wall next to it, its an acute angle

 

[opps]

Yes, thats because I haven't put extra timber on the header yet. It will be at the same level as the side. (The frame will then be parallel to the wall opposite, then i’m bringing the wall level to the frame)

Fair enough.

Out of interest are you dabbing and then adding screws to secure it to the studs. I have no idea if the load bearing for dot and dab is lower than screwed plasterboard. BTW, the load bearing of plasterboard becomes lower once it is skimmed.

 

[redhexagonal]

Fair enough.

Out of interest are you dabbing and then adding screws to secure it to the studs. I have no idea if the load bearing for dot and dab is lower than screwed plasterboard. BTW, the load bearing of plasterboard becomes lower once it is skimmed.

I was just going to dot and dab. Its not a huge area. I noticed one small wall in my house has been dot and dabbed over four times!