Hung large kitchen cabinet to thin stud wall

[giacomoz]

In the house I recently bought I set off to remove a stack of kitchen cabinet at the end near the left wall to fit a tall fridge approximately 60cm wide. Wall hung units are, in order from the left wall: 15cm wide custom built (only attached laterally to the next unit, not to the walls), 100cm, 60cm, 60cm. I wanted to remove the 15cm custom unit and a 60cm unit and keep the 100cm double unit.

I removed the 15cm, 100cm and 60cm leftmost units only to find the brackets on each side of each cabinet were hung using plastic plasterboard fixings. Some of the holes had collapsed over time and had been replaced with a batten at the back of the unit attached the wall once again with plasterboard fixings.

The wall at the back of the cabinet is only 75mm thick for the first 140cm including 12.5mm thick plasterboard on each side, from which I infer that the studs are either 2x2 or 2x3 with the long side parallel to the wall, which I understand is unusual. At the other side of this stud wall is a cloakroom. The studs are spaced 60cm centre. After the first 140cm, it's dot and dab but I am not sure yet if thermalite or concrete blocks.

To put the 100mm unit back up, I think I have 2 sensible options:
1) Use a long 1m rail with 2 fixings. Leftmost into stud and rightmost into dot and dab. I would use Corefix 100mm into dot and dab. I could possibly double up on the Corefix and put one 30cm or so from the right edge.
2) Remove a strip of plasterboard, attach a 2x1 vertical batten to the blocks and a 2x2 noggin between it and the stud and make good. Then I could still use a 1m long bracket but I could use more than 2 wood screws and possibly still use 1 or 2 Corefix into dot and dab.

I am also worried that all other units attached to dot and dab might be on plasterboard fixings only so I'm thinking to replace with Corefix these also.

I am looking for advice on how to proceed. Thanks

 

[JohnD]

With the long rail you can use as many fixings as you want. One into every stud it passes, one under each hanger, one at each end, plus as many extras as you want.

You can also fix a batten to the wall under the cabinet and relax the hangers enough to put weight on it.

You can extend the rail beyond the cabinet for extra support to the end, especially if it is out of sight behind a freezer, but if you paint it (before fixing) to match the wall it will not be obtrusive.

 

[giacomoz]

This large 100cm unit will be the only one with stud wall behind and only for about 60cm so it will pass only 1 stud at the very left.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Then add several "umbrella fixings" (cavity wall fixings) to support the rail to spread the load across the PB sheet. Every 150mm or so should do.

The alternative is to cut out two sections of PB, exposing three studs, and install two 12mm or 18mm plywood pattresses say 150 to 200mm wide) between the studs where the rail is to go, reinstate the plasterboard, fill and sand before installing the cupboard and redecorating

 

[JohnD]

I think you say there is a stud wall 1400mm wide. So it should have two or three studs. Use a hanging rail to span all of them so you can screw into them. This will be strong enough even though you have 400mm of spare rail with nothing hung on it. Or of course if it spans a block work section you you can screw to that as well.

A diagram would be helpful.