ICOS/Ideal HE18 Hot Water but No Heating

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David Ward

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I have an ICOS Ideal HE18.

Got up this morning to NO HEATING but water is working fine.

I've done as much checking as I can - I'm no expert.

I have hot water, my wireless room thermostat appears to be working (I've reset it to test it) and it's turned up to 25. I've fiddled with the valve in the airing cupboard, I've reset the boiler and I've turned it on and off at the siwtch.

But the boiler shows '0' (except when water is on)

System is pretty clean as about 6 weeks ago I did a system flush with cleaner, left it a week or so then stuck some inhibitor in - I do this every couple of years.

But now I need help and advice
 
What make/model wireless room stat do you have? Is the valve in the airing cupboard moving when the stat is turned on or off?
 
Not to sure. I've wiggled it about a bit and the heating has now come on. Maybe it was a bit sticky.
I don't know if it was the doing that to the valve or the fact that I left the wireless thermostat in the airing cupboard by mistake and the temp went up, but after I took it out and adjusted the settings the heating kicked into life. I'm going to keep my eye on it for s little while. But thanks anyway.
 
Been there, done it!
Couldn't figure why heating wasn't firing up on a recent job - elderly customer was in closed off room, with a blow heater on full AND the NEST roomstat was right next to her... Room temp was 28 degrees in there and the stat was set to call for 23 degrees!!
It gets better... I gave her the blower to keep her warm while I worked :whistle:
 
David Ward said:
I have an ICOS Ideal HE18.

Got up this morning to NO HEATING but water is working fine.

I've done as much checking as I can - I'm no expert.

I have hot water, my wireless room thermostat appears to be working (I've reset it to test it) and it's turned up to 25. I've fiddled with the valve in the airing cupboard, I've reset the boiler and I've turned it on and off at the siwtch.

But the boiler shows '0' (except when water is on)

System is pretty clean as about 6 weeks ago I did a system flush with cleaner, left it a week or so then stuck some inhibitor in - I do this every couple of years.

But now I need help and advice
Click to expand...



Problem has not been solved. Looks like it was a temporary fix.

Hot water is still coming on but heating won't. The pump appears to be working.

The motorised valve works when the water comes on and moves all the way to the right. But if I turn the hot water off the valve stays where it is. If I manually move the valve all the way to the left the heating does still not switch on and it won't move of it's own accord.

Any suggestions
 
It's a bit awkward because of where it is. It's a Honeywell Sundial Y Plan V4073A1039 3 Port.

What I have noticed is that with the water on the valve moves to wards auto but only goes about half way across.
When heating is on it doesn't move at all.
I have read that you can move the switch all the way to the manual position and lock it in - this doesn't work
With the water off the switch is loose and does not turn the motor at all. It does engage with the motor when moving it to the manual position but then it stays there and doesn't spring back (until water is turned on)
 
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I don't know if this makes any difference to what I have said about the valves workings

3 Position Diverter Valve
Replacement head part is 4000 3916 003

If it is kaput, I've been looking at replacements.

Is this a mid-position valve?
Do I go for the whole valve or just replacement head or even just the motor - I'm pretty competent just don't know much about central heating systems.

Learning all the time....
 
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I would recommend doing some tests before replacing the valve head, the motor must be working so the problem is either microswitches in the valve head faulty, mechanism in valve head faulty, or problem with the wiring to the valve.

At the very least carry out this test to avoid wasting money on an unneeded new valve head.

With hot water off at the programmer and central heating on with room stat turned up, you should have:
240V on the valves white wire
240V on the valves grey wire

If you don't have the above, the fault is external to the valve.

When it's all working there should also be 240V on the valves orange wire to power the pump and boiler, this probably isn't happening at the moment.

All tests will need to be carried out with a 2 probe AC volt meter, with one probe connected to neutral for all tests. A neon screwdriver or volt stick is not suitable and will give incorrect/misleading readings.

I'm going to guess there is no power to the grey wire when the hot water is off.
 
Right, I'll get a meter on them as soon as I can. These measurement do I take them from the valve head or from the connection box, or does it not matter. If it's from the valve it's gonna be a pig.

Still Learning

Yesterday I couldn't spell plummer, now are one.
 
Take it from the connection box, the connections in the valve head will not be accessible.
 
I will, but will have to do it tomorrow too much wine to mess with electrics right now = can barely type (took about 6 attempts to write this)

Yesterday I couldn't spell plummer, now I are nearly are one.
 
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