O
olliewills
Hello all,
Apologies in advance but this'll be another question about shower pressure!
My partner and I have just moved into a 1980's 3-bed semi and the shower is basically a dribble. Even without the hose/head the water basically trickles out. Our hot water comes from a rather aged traditional gas boiler with small hot water tank in the airing cupboard and expansion in the loft.
The shower a is a thermostatic type with the little red tab. the pipes for hot/cold run have been run up into the loft before coming back down to the tank in the airing cupboard(HW tank and shower are both on the 1st floor). It seems as though the shower is currently fed hot from the negative tank and cold from the expansion as both feeds have equally poor pressure. Every other hot or cold tap in the house is capable of producing a more than acceptable flow.
I've done my research and I have a plan which I wanted to run by people here before going off to get quotes on the work. At present, the flow rate of my garden tap is ~24 litres per minute (Filled a 10l bucket in 25s) and the static pressure is 4 bars. Dynamic pressure dropped to just above two bars with the kitchen cold tap almost fully open and ~3 bars with the kitchen tap partially open at a point where you could happily fill a kettle or wash up without worrying.
My plan is this:
Thanks everyone, return-questions welcome!
Ollie
Apologies in advance but this'll be another question about shower pressure!
My partner and I have just moved into a 1980's 3-bed semi and the shower is basically a dribble. Even without the hose/head the water basically trickles out. Our hot water comes from a rather aged traditional gas boiler with small hot water tank in the airing cupboard and expansion in the loft.
The shower a is a thermostatic type with the little red tab. the pipes for hot/cold run have been run up into the loft before coming back down to the tank in the airing cupboard(HW tank and shower are both on the 1st floor). It seems as though the shower is currently fed hot from the negative tank and cold from the expansion as both feeds have equally poor pressure. Every other hot or cold tap in the house is capable of producing a more than acceptable flow.
I've done my research and I have a plan which I wanted to run by people here before going off to get quotes on the work. At present, the flow rate of my garden tap is ~24 litres per minute (Filled a 10l bucket in 25s) and the static pressure is 4 bars. Dynamic pressure dropped to just above two bars with the kitchen cold tap almost fully open and ~3 bars with the kitchen tap partially open at a point where you could happily fill a kettle or wash up without worrying.
My plan is this:
- Remove the old boiler and have a new Bosch combi installed, currently thinking of a Greenstar CDi Highflow either 440 or 550(the big boy!) to make the most of my pressure/flow rate.
- Have a Wave Smart controller fitted and paired with the boiler
- Have any relevant internal pipes up-rated if people think it necessary
- Possibly have a new shower installed if the thermostatic mixer won't place nicely with the new boiler
- Ensure all cold water is drawn directly from mains supply (i think that's a given with a combi but wanted to check)
- More economical and customisable energy usage
- Never having to worry about how much hot water I have
- Have a nice powerful shower which suits both myself and my partner
- Having scope to provide heat/water pressure to future extensions to the house such as another bathroom
- Freeing up space in the airing cupboard for storage
Thanks everyone, return-questions welcome!
Ollie