Ideal Logic 30 and pesky Hive

[Blap]

Hi

Having trawled every post and site I can, I’ve reached a point where I sheepishly need to raise my hand and admit defeat.
Help? I’ve installed hive following all the guides I can and have had successfully installed the unit and it responds to the thermostat with both the power light being on and (when the temperature setting calls for it) the heat/flame light comes on (it’s a single Chanel unit btw). This light also comes on if you press the silver button. Sadly that’s as good as it gets. The boiler doesn’t turn on despite the internal timer on the boiler being set to permanently on (to avoid it overriding the hive command to fire up) and the hive unit wired up as per photos attached (forgive the improper use of the earth wire- am replacing this test cable with a 4 wire cable once I get this working). What have I missed?

 

[Deleted member 221031]

Move the Hive live from the boiler supply to the tye one circled in the pic

That’s how I wire them on logics

 

[Blap]

Hi

thanks, tried that and now there doesn’t seem to be any power going to the hive unit?

 

[denso13]

The brown and green/yellow are the switching wires and should be connected to common and 3 on the Hive. You have a neutral/blue but will need another permanent live taken from the same circuit used for the heating system. You seem to be one wire short.

 

[Blap]

Hi

I understand your point, but single channel Hive only needs three wires and an earth.

suffice to say I’ve sussed it!

It seems that the wires needed to be transposed as photos attached. System now cycles correctly when the Hive Thermostat or app creates a temperature demand. Mental note for anyone else doing this - consider the external temperature sensor (if fitted) as you’ll be convinced it’s not working correctly - in fact (especially on a hot day - like today) it does it’s job and reduces the temperature to heat the rads (efficiency and all that guff). So in my penultimate test I disconnected it briefly and hey presto the boiler stayed on heating the rads. In summary, to solve this I followed the cables (boiler end) at the brown connection block and worked out that terminal 1 (from left to right) is actually a looped live feeding the timer unit (if installed). So in essence terminal 2 becomes the switch.

 

[ianmcd]

I understand your point, but single channel Hive only needs three wires and an earth.

A single channel hive doesnt require an Earth

 

[Blap]

True point, it has an earthing point on the back plate if required.

 

[muggles]

What have I missed?

The first thing you've missed is that you should not be removing the casing of your boiler unless you're Gas Safe Registered - it forms the safety room seal and should not be disturbed unless you are capable of carrying out the Regulation 26.9 checks at the end, before the boiler is put back into operation.

The second thing you've missed is that it's rather a shame to be putting a crap on/off thermostat like Hive onto a boiler capable of accepting much higher efficiency OpenTherm controls.

Oh, and your wiring wasn't quite right...

 

[Blap]

Wow - have a great day and may your life be eternally blessed.

 

[muggles]

And yours too. The first piece of advice is important for your safety and should be heeded - having had the casing off your boiler you should now have it professionally checked to ensure it remains safe to use

 

[ianmcd]

True point, it has an earthing point on the back plate if required.

No it doesnt it has an Earth tether, it is just so you can put an existing earth cable into a dead end it does not do anything , the cable does not connect to anything ,it is just so you can tether the existing cable

 

[Blap]

Ah I see. Thanks for that much appreciated.