ideas and design for a wood storage/maybe add a mini work area.

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Hello, not sure if there is a rule not written with length of titles to threads, sorry if there is.

so, I currently store wood, my saw horses and a few other things down the side of our house, it’s kept dry with a roof that’s connected to the side wall and fence, but I live on the last house in the city, where there is several trees before an open field, theses trees find away to make holes in the roof, so I need a new place t store the wood, or plug all the holes.

I live on a hill, but the area I live on, has been cut out, they used the hill chalk to build a castle, many other things since 4th century, to a motorway in the 1970’s. As such, the ground is “flat” but com uneven. We do have a car port, that has been fenced into our garden, and we have a play house for my niece. The rest of the area, is about, 12ft, by 10ft, but there is a path and back gate here too, so realistically looking at 8ft by 10ft.

I am thinking of building a small work area, and storage for wood, a few tools and anything else needed that can free up our shed, and down the side of the house.

I plan to make it, 3ft, by 6ft, leaving me a flat outside work area, where I can simply wheel anything like table saw out and have plenty of room. If I need more room, I can always use the back drive area, as long as I don’t block people in.

I plan to start building this mid to late march, depending on weather, so I am in planning and working out cost stage here.

my badly drawn pictures and plans are to come.

So, first question would 1x2” treated be good enough to be the frame should I use a 2x2, bigger? This will be 6ft high, and will have a plastic clear roof (bad idea?) how far should I make the sud wall? I was thinking 18”, and my last question on material is, I built my bbq area out of feather boards, due to price, but do you think I should use it again, or go for something like shiplap? an idea I had was to make the storage area be able to be completely open when working, so my work bench would be 3ft deep, the doors to the area would completely be removable, allowing full access to storage and usability. I can make 2 doors, both 3ft by 6ft, maybe sliding in via rails (t track?).

what are your opinions?

i estimate this will take me about 4 months to build due to being disabled, and only able to build on good pain days and good weather. It took me 6 months to build my bbq area 2 years ago, but it’s still not finished as I haven’t glued down the tiles (worktop) - using giant floor tiles, cut down to 900mmx600mm
 
general comments
38x63 cls frame will give decent strength, a bit cheaper
is it all for firewood or making say wooden furniture or similar ???
 
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It will be storage for woodworking mostly, with a small bit for wood burning to keep dry for my sister, I am talking of a 5 gallon bucket with wood that I can’t use again.

I plan to make a wood storage stand on wheels for sheet wood that is full size, for down the side of the house, it will be a side storage, like the trolley you see at stores, but will be clamped down to stope twisting, and when needing it, it will just roll out.
 
plastic roof is a no no unless the contents can cope with dampness and possible drips as you will get condensation underneath
 
Oh, just like down the side of the house, I was hoping to have a clear open roof, as the area I plan to build this has extremely sun shine hours compared to rest of the west facing garden, and didn’t want it blocked off when doing diy.
 
So, Wickes are doing a deal on some CLS timber, and its for indoor recommended usage. Now, I know in the USA, they use this and put some type of wrap, before putting on the cladding for their homes. Now I know their homes are going to be indoor, but could I use something like this?

I plan to make a stud frame, wrap the frame with some coating, then adding the cladding onto the coating, effectively inclosing the frame work from the outside. Now on the inside, I plan to put up some thin plywood sheeting, with each section of the frame work, to be field with shredded cardboard boxes, some fire resistance fibre and expanding foam.

I am having the doors removable, so I can move out some tools (table saw for example) out into an open area, but I am after some water resistance fabric for a wimbledon tennis match when it rains situation.
 
as long as it doesnt sit in water it will be fine do not wrap in anything other than paint or treatment so the wood can breath
 
I am going to have to put the whole structure of this mini work area on some sort of footing, I need it to be 2 inches off the ground as it were, this is due to living on a hill, a flat part of the hill, but where the water runs off our garden all the water would sit there and will rot the r wood. This area used to be a car stand for our home, but due to someone... not sure who... said that we can only put up a permanent fence system with a person gate, not a doubled gate so we can get a car in... I think it was a delivery from Jewson which was a heavy lifter crane type truck, and it hit our gate, which half broke our neighbours garage, So if I am thinking correctly our neighbour wasn't happy that the installers used the garage as an anker, but it required access to her garage to remove all the bolts that basically snapped off half inside her garage,

anyway the gate was rotting due to the fact whenever it rained water pooled at the gate, The fence they put up has a nice gap of about 2 inches and have no problems. So, I need ideas for feet basically, to lift the structured wall off the ground by 2 inches... I can't work out a simple but very cheap option for this. All ideas are welcome here btw.

I am after a couple of items can you help or know where I can get them, I am after screws that are 120mm long, I am also after a screw bit, maybe 150mm long, fully magnetic both a PZ2 if possible?
 
general comments
assuming its fixed to the house fully on one side you still need solid contact to the ground the other side and floating on screws wont work as the screws are weak and with near zero sideways support diagonal bracing vertically horizontally and diagonally can help this can be sheet material on flat surfaces or in corners as large triangles
if you have a floor plate the other side then slab/brick /other material 40-50mm off the ground and assuming concrete or slabs screwed into through the bottom wall plate
if posts you could get a brick and drill a hole into it and something like 8mm steel /rebar/other bar you have handy even 15mm copper pipe into post and ground through brick/spacing off ground material
a bit off felt or dpm between post or wall plate and top off packing material
 
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Screwfix or toolstation will be able to provide you with 120mm+ length screws and magnetic bit holder extensions, cheap or expensive

cheapo bit set

When/if you make a pad/spur to rest your bearers on, you could always screw a sacrificial plank on to cover up the large gap to the ground level, you might have to replace this when it rots, but it will be years… and can be cheap.

Good luck with it, post some pics, I’d be curious to see it.
 
Hello

so picture below shows the gap, and rough layout of the shed, the rest of the area is 8ft x 12ft where I can use this as an outdoor workshop. The shed/storage/work shop will be 78inch wide, 6ft high and 3ft depth.

the gap underneath is essential if no cap, the water run off puddles…

FFCEE3A0-7432-40FE-B68E-A16516E38FB7.jpeg
 
yeah, there is a slight slop, I live on a hill, but the bit of the hill I live on has been cut out, so I live on a wedge removed area of a hill, but its all slightly slopped so water runs and doesn't puddle.

The area underneath the grass, is actually a car port, and behind the fence, is a drive away type area, where it leads to people garages or car ports. which again is slightly slopped, and is a big space, room for 15 car ports or garages + turn around space.
 
ok i think i am misunderstanding this ???
its not house to fence roofed shed just an area 3x6ft under a carport type structure near the fence ???
 
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