Induction hob wiring

J

jules43

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I am looking to install a new induction hob in a kitchen island that is currently on gas. The island has a 32 amp ring main running to it which also provides power to other kitchen sockets (kettle, microwave etc).

The induction hob being considered is this one:


Despite being rated as a 7.4 kW hob it has 20, 16, 13 or 10 Amps current management options.

Can I use a switch fuse spur on the ring to install this hob? If so, what's the highest current option I could choose?

Running a cooker cable to the island would be pretty challenging.

Thanks
 
There are several complicated options but you really ought to extend the cooker circuit.

Are you not having an oven?
 
If you invoke the power management function you’ll gave to set off to 13amp, and fit a 13amp FCU. You cannot connect anything to a ring final that individually pull more than 13amp.
The hob you have in mind has 5 cooking zones and that 13amps will be shared between any active zone. So the performance of each zone will be disappointing on a busy day (Xmas is coming).
The advice is that any appliance over 2kW (8.5amp) should be on a separate circuit and not on a ring final. I really really suggest that you accept the challenge and have a separate circuit run to your island. Sorry
 
Does the other end of the gas pipe end up anywhere useful? If you had it properly disconnected I wonder if you could use its presence to get a beefy cable in:

String through pipe ( hoover on the other end)
Tie magnet to end of string
Make separate bit of string with magnet on the end. Clip magnets together one inside pipe one outside
Pull string #1 back
You now have string from A to B, use to pull cable

Magnets on string are my favourite way to do fiddly jobs
 
I was not suggesting pulling the cable through the pipe. The cable would go next to it, but use of the pipe makes it so much easier to get your string in the right place.
 
HandyMan23 said:
You can easily get that in.
I have seen 6mm shoehorned in a 15mm pipe once.
Click to expand...
Hmm. You’ll be lucky to do that.
15mm copper pipe has 13.6mm nominal inside diameter
6mm T&E has Nominal O.D - 13.5mm x 7mm

Any bend and it isn’t going to happen.

I’m assuming the pipe is buried under floor. Maybe the op can clarify.
 
jules43 said:
The island has a 32 amp ring main running to it which also provides power to other kitchen sockets (kettle, microwave etc).
Click to expand...
If the "etc" includes, a washing machine, dishwasher, tumble dryer, or the sockets are used for appliances with heating elements (air fryer, iron, coffee machine) then I wouldn't even consider adding the hob to the ring. OK, unlikely they would all be on at the same time but after the hob takes 13A there isn't that much left for everything else........
 
Thanks for the insights I will scratch plugging it into the ring off the list of ideas.

We do have an oven nearby, but with a 6+kW double oven i fear we'd also be pushing the limit on the spur and it would require disassembling fitted cupboards.

The gas pipe is set in the concrete floor and is quite a long run. I have yet to confirm it's 15mm rather than 22mm so have considered using it as conduit with a large t&e flex cable (13.3mm diameter) but though it has its appeal it certainly has a couple of risks/downsides. I reckon a might get round one 90 degree bend but no more.

For now it looks like I'm just going to have to find an optimal route for a new spur that minimises the making good afterwards. We have at least come up with a new route that avoids cupboards and minimises distance under tiled floor.

Thanks

J
 
No need to fish the wire through the pipe. It will reduce the current carying capacity of the cable.

Buy real conduit instead or just simply run the wire without anything protecting it.
 
HandyMan23 said:
No need to fish the wire through the pipe. It will reduce the current carying capacity of the cable.

Buy real conduit instead or just simply run the wire without anything protecting it.
Click to expand...
it’s a concrete floor! The OP would have to dig a trench.

jules43 said:
For now it looks like I'm just going to have to find an optimal route for a new spur that minimises the making good afterwards. We have at least come up with a new route that avoids cupboards and minimises distance under tiled floor.
Click to expand...

You keep saying “spur”. A spur us a single cable connection from a ring final circuit. We have already established that you cannot do that. You need a separate, new circuit from the consumer unit to the island. Sorry
 
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