Installing new clock on rangemaster

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Hi, I have inherited a rangemaster Toledo 110 gas. I was having issues with the clock. The buttons were all jammed in and bent up. So when the oven went into auto mode I was unable to return to manual and my gas ovens were locked off. After a few days the clock then just died.

I've ordered a new clock from rangemaster and upon receiving it have noticed the prongs on the back are different to the old one, as I was told that the old clock is now obsolete.

I've tried wiring up the clock following the circuit guide in the back of the toledos online manual. But when I switch the oven on the clock is still dead. Can someone tell me where I'm going wrong? There are 4 prongs down the one side. Which ones do I put the orange/yellow and the brown in? Or doesn't it matter? Should i be putting something in the 2 the other side labelled L/7 L/8?[GALLERY=media, 98865]Image by Hayleym86 posted 10 Dec 2016 at 8:16 PM[/GALLERY]
 
Got a photo of where they were connected on the old clock? Also can't really see the markings on the new clock particularly well.

Where did you get the new clock from? Rangemaster direct?
 
That's the thing. I did have a photo of the set up on old clock but I accidentally deleted it! Yes purchased direct from Rangemaster.

I'll try and take a better photo and screen shot the diagram from the online manual.
It's probably really obvious where I've gone wrong. But I don't have a clue.
 
In that case, maybe a photo of the original clock, albeit without wiring attached. Might give some clues
 
1. Old clock- 2 bottom prongs and 2 prongs next to the rectangular box. Matches the set up on the diagram im manual and also 4 prongs for the 4 wires I have.

2. New clock- 2 prongs at bottom but 4 prongs to the side of the 2 rectangular boxes (nose lungs or labels) and 2 on the opposite side which aren't on the old clock and not shown in diagram.

3. Circuit diagram shown in the back of the current manual on rangemaster website.
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That new clock is wired very wrong, I'm concerned it may now be damaged.
with the photo as it is orientated now:
Top left should have the live supply to power the clock. This will be from the spade with 2 browns near the blue.
Top right should have a neutral to power the clock. This will be from the blue wire

At the bottom are 2 relay outputs looking at the wiring you only need one
Connect the spade with 2 brown wires to the bottom left terminal
Leave the spade with the orange and yellow wires where it is.
 
almost, the brown wires on terminal b should be connected to the very bottom left terminal, beside the orange/yellow wires. There should be nothing connected to the A and B terminals.
upload_2016-12-10_21-14-53.jpeg
 
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