Integrated Bosch dishwasher vs freestanding

[davecon70]

Afternoon all

My 2008 integrated Bosch dishwasher has finally died and I have to replace it.

I’m considering just going for a freestanding one this time. Apparently they are 60cm vs 59.8cm for integrated but pretty sure it will fit.

One question though. My old integrated one was hard wired. I’m assuming it would be the case of removing the plug and wiring up the old connection. An electrician would do this though pretty sure with power off I could do it!

Am I missing anything? Cheers for any input.

 

[jj4091]

Not sure about dish washers but integrated washing machines are built to a higher quality than free standing ones so that there are no problems with vibration when install in a cabinet. Also you probably won't be able to fit a decorative panel to the front of a free standing one that will match your other cupboard doors. I cannot know whether you are competent to connect it yourself or not.

 

[davecon70]

I wasn’t too concerned about attaching the integrated door cover as it’s quite old and a bit warped. Good point about integrated being built better though!

 

[Rodders53]

Bosch SMV4HVX38G Series 4 integrated £499 D rated energy, stainless steel tub from Marks Electrical
vs
SMS2HVI66G Series 2 E rated energy also SS insides at £449.
2 year vs 5 year warranty

I can see why you are tempted. Measure at least twice before purchase at all points between the adjacent cupboards and the depth and the height available.

815 x 598 x 550 is the integrated size
845 x 600 x 600 is the Standard (depth mainly due to the lid, I suspect)

You'll need to trim/finish/seal the kickboards if you go away from integrated.

Then run it past your 'interior designer' for look and feel.

There's no significant difference that I can see between the integrated and standard dishwashers by BSH (Bosch, Neff, Siemens) I've owned... other than some are plastic tub vs stainless steel and may (just may) have better bits as you go up the ranges and price point?

If there's a above counter fused isolator switch for the dishwasher then you could look to replace a cord outlet plate behind the machine with a 13A socket rather than hard wire it; depending on the gap available.
My integrated dishwasher has a socket in the adjacent cupboard and a fused isolater above the worktop.

 

[opps]

Why was it "hard wired"?

Edit, if you can wire a plug, you should be OK (wiring in to a fused supply unit is probably easier than wiring a plug). Just make sure that the power is off when doing the work.

 

[JohnD]

you can change your existing connection to a socket. but try not to put the socket directly behind the washer as the thickness of the plug will make it stick out. Where, and what sort, is your existing power switch?

 

[opps]

Not sure about dish washers but integrated washing machines are built to a higher quality than free standing ones so that there are no problems with vibration when install in a cabinet. Also you probably won't be able to fit a decorative panel to the front of a free standing one that will match your other cupboard doors. I cannot know whether you are competent to connect it yourself or not.

I kinda get what you are saying but dishwashers don't have any significant rotational forces when in operation.

My previous washing machine was a free standing Miele. My worktops were deep enough to fit a cupboard door over it. My current washing machine is one of those integrated Siemens units that displays the time/cycle on the floor. Fortunately, I have not need to strip down the current machine but I have no reason to assume that the build quality is superior to the older Miele, which I repaired a few times (largely because of the age of the machine).

Personally, I suspect it might be the case that the higher quality brands are more interested in making integrated units, rather than integrated units being built to a higher standard per se. I could be wrong though.

 

[Rodders53]

Personally, I suspect it might be the case that the higher quality brands are more interested in making integrated units, rather than integrated units being built to a higher standard per se. I could be wrong though.

Nah. The cheapo brands are in the integrated game as well as the 'higher quality'. Beko, Ikea, etc.,. for both dish and clothes washers (or washer-dryers).

Bosch -> Neff -> Siemens is the BSH hierarchy. Even within Bosch they have their Series hierarchy (plastic vs stainless tubs being an obvious difference). As to how much extra quality is in the more expensive units... only an independent service tech would be able to say?

 

[davecon70]

Bosch SMV4HVX38G Series 4 integrated £499 D rated energy, stainless steel tub from Marks Electrical
vs
SMS2HVI66G Series 2 E rated energy also SS insides at £449.
2 year vs 5 year warranty

I can see why you are tempted. Measure at least twice before purchase at all points between the adjacent cupboards and the depth and the height available.

815 x 598 x 550 is the integrated size
845 x 600 x 600 is the Standard (depth mainly due to the lid, I suspect)

You'll need to trim/finish/seal the kickboards if you go away from integrated.

Then run it past your 'interior designer' for look and feel.

There's no significant difference that I can see between the integrated and standard dishwashers by BSH (Bosch, Neff, Siemens) I've owned... other than some are plastic tub vs stainless steel and may (just may) have better bits as you go up the ranges and price point?

If there's a above counter fused isolator switch for the dishwasher then you could look to replace a cord outlet plate behind the machine with a 13A socket rather than hard wire it; depending on the gap available.
My integrated dishwasher has a socket in the adjacent cupboard and a fused isolater above the worktop.

Thanks for the reply. Might have to revert to integrated as if depth is 60cm it’s going to stick out a couple of cm. Measure twice as you say!

 

[davecon70]

you can change your existing connection to a socket. but try not to put the socket directly behind the washer as the thickness of the plug will make it stick out. Where, and what sort, is your existing power switch?

The dishwasher is to the left of the sink but annnoying the electrics are in the unit to the right of the sink with an isolator switch. Think it would be too fiddly to replace with a plug there and definitely not possible to fit a plug behind.

 

[davecon70]

Why was it "hard wired"?

Edit, if you can wire a plug, you should be OK (wiring in to a fused supply unit is probably easier than wiring a plug). Just make sure that the power is off when doing the work.

Think all integrated used to be hard wired though maybe they did it as it was easier. It was installed in 2008!

 

[davecon70]

Why was it "hard wired"?

Edit, if you can wire a plug, you should be OK (wiring in to a fused supply unit is probably easier than wiring a plug). Just make sure that the power is off when doing the work.

Think all integrated used to be hard wired though maybe they did it as it was easier. It was installed in 2008

 

[davecon70]

Actually I was wrong- half wrong as it is hard wired but there might be sufficient space to fit a plug at the back. I think that I’m better off using the existing wiring and it also means I can shut it off at the isolator rather than having to pull out each time.

 

[jj4091]

Think all integrated used to be hard wired though maybe they did it as it was easier. It was installed in 20

All the integrated appliances ( only washers and driers, fridges and freezers) I have ever seen have come with a plug, even in the past 30 odd years. You usually have to cut off the plug if you want to connect to an fcu. I would guess someone could not get yours to go far enough back with a plug and socket. Some electricians used to instal an an isolator above the work top which then fed a connection unit or an fcu.

 

[davecon70]

All the integrated appliances ( only washers and driers, fridges and freezers) I have ever seen have come with a plug, even in the past 30 odd years. You usually have to cut off the plug if you want to connect to an fcu. I would guess someone could not get yours to go far enough back with a plug and socket. Some electricians used to instal an ansolator above the work top which then fed a connection unit or an fcu.

I think that’s what I have. All the kitchen had to be required- now I have the isolator switch on a cabinet.