Is the Kreg KHI Concealed Hinge Jig (or equivalent) good for inset hinges? (1)
- Thread starter Yukster
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Deleted member 174758
I've just updated my previous post. Hopefully that will explain it, but basically square the hinges in the main holes (with a batten), line them up and then use the hinges themselves plus a Vix bit or pilot bit to drill the location screw pilot holes. I've used Blum hinges with Blum jigs in the past and the holes align perfectly - personally I wouldn't trust non-Blum hinges with a non-Blum jig to be compatible (although I might be jumping to the wrong conclusion here). I currently use a cheap Hettich jig evdn when installing Blum, Grass or Suce hinges - because thev35mm hole centres on the door are the same and the holes in the carvasses (for the cruciform plates) are alays 37mm in from the edges and 32mm apart vertically (this is all set down as a standard called "System 32")
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Understood. There are lots of sets of three Vix bits being sold and I don't know if I need it. What size of Vix bit do I need for the Blum concealed hinges?
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Deleted member 174758
By that do you mean the type of hinges used on "face frame" kitchens? If so the difference is often in two areas - the riser plate/base which replaces a conventional, fairly flat cruciform plate and the inset on the door of the 35mm cup drilling, which (from memory) is a bit different. Precisely which make and model of hinge are you using?
I just watched a demo of this which shows the guy using straight arm hinges (i.e. the type normally used for overlay kitchen doors) and the KHI jig. The cupboard structure he was using was effectively a conventional carcase with an 18mm thick frame applied around the outside, so not a true inset door on a frame type at all, but he did use one of those cheap plastic jigs to set the cruciform plates. TBH I have used two completely different hinge set-ups on insets where the framing overflew the carcass by quite a distance. So what type of carcass/frame set-up are you using and what type of hinges? With that information it should be easy enough to sort out any compatibility issues, if there are any that is. Note that if your face frame overflies the gable ends of the carcass you can compensate by using 35mm riser blocks in conjunction with the cruciform plates, but that there are other solutions
Note the face frame type and the type of hinges used
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Deleted member 174758
What size screws are you using? The bit size needs to be compatible with the screws
I dont rally know. I would use the screws that come with the hinges if Blum provide screw. What size screws do you use with Blum hinges (18 mm door)?
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Deleted member 174758
It depends on the hinges you buy! Blum make a lot if types if hinge. Some come with no screws, some with Euro screws, some with screw/dowel sets and some with no screws but are a flip lock type (as I said above). So you need to say which hinges you are going to use before you can decide how to drill the holes.
I think that means it will be easier to to start by deciding on what the carcass structure looks like. Is it one of these?
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Deleted member 174758
Actually your cabinet isn't like either of those, it's a conventional box structure where the hinge cruciform mounts directly onto the cabinet gable end panels and the hingr arms are cranked to accommodate the required throw. This means that when the door is opened to 90 degrees it is parallel to the carcass gable ends, but inside them:
Those hinges are designed to be used with something like 3.5 x 13mm (for 18mm doors) or 3.5 x 16mm (for 22mm doors) CSK BZP HD screws, ideally something like Hospa screws (available from eBay). Pilot size would be about 2.75mm (or a #7 or 7/64in in Vix bits)
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Deleted member 174758
It's the type you sometimes see made up on site for electical cabinets, as per the Skill Bulder video I posted a link to
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Deleted member 174758
Not quite. I recommended BZP CSK HD - bright zinc plated, countersunk head. Stainless steel are soft and snap easily if power driven, so are far from ideal for installation against metal components like hinges. Also expensive. The ones you want are £5 to £8 per 1000, like these. You might be OK with 3.5 x16mm screws, depending on the style of door, but not advisable if your doors have a saponetta edge profile (i.e. where the door edge is thinned somewhat)
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