Is there any way to use worktop offcut as a splashback?
- Thread starter Gary111
- Start date
depends what you mean ??
if you mean a slice say 12mm thick then your restricted to perhaps 6-8" with a table saw and a naughty flip
or a decent band saw and perhaps similar size depends on depth off cut
you could try a top and bottom pass over a table saw and finish the bit inbetween with a handsaw
if you mean a slice say 12mm thick then your restricted to perhaps 6-8" with a table saw and a naughty flip
or a decent band saw and perhaps similar size depends on depth off cut
you could try a top and bottom pass over a table saw and finish the bit inbetween with a handsaw
Gary
What tools do you have? My suspicion is that since you're asking you probably don't have the right ones (eg a mahoosive bandsaw or radial arm saw).
You can use a circular saw to cut 100mm from the front of the worktop but as big all says it'll be too thick as a normal upstand is 12mm ish.
Plus even if you do manage to slice it, if it's a bullnose worktop it's going to look strange.
What tools do you have? My suspicion is that since you're asking you probably don't have the right ones (eg a mahoosive bandsaw or radial arm saw).
You can use a circular saw to cut 100mm from the front of the worktop but as big all says it'll be too thick as a normal upstand is 12mm ish.
Plus even if you do manage to slice it, if it's a bullnose worktop it's going to look strange.
Are we talking about laminated worktop, wood, granite, quartz?
Does sound like a strange thing to do but my weapon of choice would be a power planer or a router on the back and stop when you are at the thickness you need although it will probably lose a lot of structural integrity if you take it too thin and may want to curl up too.
Is it chipboard? Any moisture that inevitably will get past the silicone at some point and into that chipboard and it'll be blown and unrepairable in no time. There's a reason splashbacks aren't made from chipboard.
You can't use it as a backsplash/ splashback behind a gas hob as it's combustible material just incase you were thinking about doing that.
Thanks it's laminate worktop, what is a splashback made from?
Thanks, so behind an electric hob is ok?
Usually something impervious to water ie tiles.
Yes, but it will look rubbish imo, get some toughened glass.
Thanks for all your answers, the main problem is that the units don't touch the wall at the back when levelled, because the wall or floor is out.
There's a gap of around 1mm at the back of the worktop, and to add to the fun the wall is concave.
This is with only a tiny amount of overhang at the front of the worktop, which ideally I want to increase a bit.
Having read your answers maybe the best way would be thick tiles to take up the gap?
Or moisture resistant plasterboard, then tiles?
I think glass would look good but it's a rental property so not sure of the safety aspect.
Thanks
There's a gap of around 1mm at the back of the worktop, and to add to the fun the wall is concave.
This is with only a tiny amount of overhang at the front of the worktop, which ideally I want to increase a bit.
Having read your answers maybe the best way would be thick tiles to take up the gap?
Or moisture resistant plasterboard, then tiles?
I think glass would look good but it's a rental property so not sure of the safety aspect.
Thanks
At the back of most British supplied kitchens there is a service void of up to 75mm at the back of the unit.
I can't understand why there is such a big gap, the back of the units should have been scribed to the walls to loose the gap or atleast most of it. This ensures the worktop can be scribed to the wall and giving a over hang at the front. The over hang if it's a handled kitchen should be 40mm but 30mm is acceptable.
The other option though would of been over depth worktops.
Have you look at Upstands, you can lose a 15mm gap with 18mm upstand.
I can't understand why there is such a big gap, the back of the units should have been scribed to the walls to loose the gap or atleast most of it. This ensures the worktop can be scribed to the wall and giving a over hang at the front. The over hang if it's a handled kitchen should be 40mm but 30mm is acceptable.
The other option though would of been over depth worktops.
Have you look at Upstands, you can lose a 15mm gap with 18mm upstand.