Joining stairs riser / nosing to wooden floor.

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Hello,
What's the best way to cover the gap between the floor and the riser of the stairs, in particular, the radiused section of the stair risers. Some kind of timber moulding would be ideal, however, I am at a loss how to neatly cover the radiused section.
Thankyou in advanced
 

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The traditional way is cork strips but they kind of rely on a standard, even gap.
I wonder if some granulated cork could be mixed with pva or similar (some shoemakers use similar) and filled into the gap?

Normal scotia/trim for the rest?

I wonder if it's possible to bend a strip of moulding?
You'd need a wallpaper stripper, a bit of plastic pipe as a container and a jig made of ply so you can fix the soft moulding to cool and set?
 
th usual is
assuming you know the thickness off the bottom tread at all points you undercut it [slot under the the bottom edge] up to 12mm max but no more than half board thickness
 
Thank you both for your responses, much appreciated. I like the idea of using cork strips or granulated cork to fill the gap as a starting point and then attempt to bend scotia trim. Hope with some notches at the back it will hug the radius of the stairs without breaking.
 
I found the cork expansion strips a little brittle. If you give it a go, try taping the back of the strip before you bend it... it might just stay in on piece(y)
 
The traditional way is cork strips but they kind of rely on a standard, even gap.
These days you use an appropriately coloured Compraband (compressed, closed cell neoprene rubber tape - far faster and less messy) which expands to fill the gap, but you'd still need a more even gap than that. The edge could, however, be tidied up using a multitool with any white edges coloured with an appropriately coloured marker pen (special ones in matching colours to laminate flooring are sold)
 
You might find that cork bends if it's wet? Dunno!
But wet cork is more malleable - however you still need some "give" once it's in place
 
Would normally undercut as big -all...
Agreed, that is normally what I'd want to do as well, but in this case the OP seems to have already installed the floor almost up to the stair, which is far from ideal. So we need to be in "sort out" mode, not "research, plan, do" mode
 
Agreed, that is normally what I'd want to do as well, but in this case the OP seems to have already installed the floor almost up to the stair, which is far from ideal. So we need to be in "sort out" mode, not "research, plan, do" mode
That’s why I suggested flexi scotia trim
 
as an aside i assume no carpet is being added as a finishing touch ???
if it where me i would add moulding[scotia or quadrant ] on all strait surfaces pinned to the tread and just tape over the curved gap and in 6 months choose a more perminant softer squishier the better infill after a good hoover to clear out the gap
remember its an expansion gap a compromise between fully allowing the floor to settle as best as it can to reduce the expansion expected to perhaps 3-5mm that a slightly harder silicon or cork type infill can accommodate
 
B-A the compressed banding which is now available will cover gaps up to 30mm. We've been using it to fill the rather uneven gaps between bare Victorian brick walls and laminate flooring. It is far easier to install than cork and unlike silicone it will seal bigger gaps neatly without the need for any form of backer to support wide beads, or the neef to lay multiple beads which pick up dust whilst they are setting
 
thanks havent laid a floor for perhaps 15 years now [knees lol]so things have obviously moved on a bit
the days off many occasions i had to go and fish out silicon or cork to remove a tent or "cracking" floor have long gone lol
 
AFAIK Compraband is a relatively recently product. It isn't cheap, though, at c.£20 a roll, but makes the task so much faster and easier than messing about with cork or silicone
 
£20 is cheap assuming it will do say 3 big rooms or 5 small rooms [about 100ft-150/30-45m]???
 
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