Kitchen - Fitting a straight corner unit

D

darkan9el

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Hi all, I have a 600 base unit and a 800 and 900 base corner unit. When fitted they will have a 32mm gap either side this includes the corner molding.

Can anyone give some advice on how best to finish this neatly.

 
Ok with it now , could get a piece of matching board to fit behind the post that closes the gap to the cabs . A piece of plynth cut
Put the machine edge next to cabinet , your cut behind the post .
Will fill gap to cabinet line and give you something to fix into .
 
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bigger pillar. If you have another piece of corner moulding you could screw it onto the smaller unit. If it overlaps behind the existing one, it won't show the join.

Or you could move the 900 unit out from the wall bit more. You may need to use a packer to reduce risk of wobble.
 
JohnD said:
bigger pillar. If you have another piece of corner moulding you could screw it onto the smaller unit. If it overlaps behind the existing one, it won't show the join.

Or you could move the 900 unit out from the wall bit more. You may need to use a packer to reduce risk of wobble.
Click to expand...

At 32mm off the wall ,even the back of the doors would be proud of worktop ?
Bigger post , I think is generic with standard sized units ?
 
I had something like yours, and put in a 100mm pillar (I think it was intended for the corners of a kitchen island) that I happened to have.

I did also move the other end of the run towards the corner gap.
 
Thanks for the replies, getting a better idea of what I can do, like the idea of packing the back too, these are Howdens standard base units. I'll have a better idea of what I have to play with today as I'm cutting out to accommodate pipes and get the three units fixed in place today, well that's the plan.
 
Minor point, I know, but I almost always start installing kitchens from a corner and work outwards - that way any scribe strips (if required) go at the outer ends of the cabinet runs which looks a bit less messy.
 
darkan9el said:
Thanks for the replies, getting a better idea of what I can do, like the idea of packing the back too, these are Howdens standard base units. I'll have a better idea of what I have to play with today as I'm cutting out to accommodate pipes and get the three units fixed in place today, well that's the plan.
Click to expand...
Then will be left with a gap , thickness of the door with a matching panel behind .
Depending on the facilities an materials available , could make something to fill the gap from the post to the door at door line .
Could make all the backing and packing from basic timbers saving you colour coded panels to make a final infill at door line ?
Local joiners shop might help if you need accurate cuts, narrow strips , they should be able to achieve one good side without chips using a fine blade .
btw is you fix the cabs together using equal thickness timbers , is effectively making an absolute square corner , your walls might be miles out so might need to mess about getting right for the walls , keeping in mind the worktops .
Hopefully is square walls and falls into place

Might be better finished to set the filler behind post say 5mm recessed , then the final filler sit back slightly from the edge of the post and door, might be neater finish .
 
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Well I did battle with the base units, hardest part was getting it all level and staying level. If I had more time I'd do this better but I need to get this done. I might refine it later, I have a mate who has a joinery shop so I might ask him to run off a few small in-fills to level it to the door.

Constructive criticism? (Be gentle ;))
 
darkan9el said:
Well I did battle with the base units, hardest part was getting it all level and staying level. If I had more time I'd do this better but I need to get this done. I might refine it later, I have a mate who has a joinery shop so I might ask him to run off a few small in-fills to level it to the door.

Constructive criticism? (Be gentle ;))
Click to expand...
Could you not have moved the left unit to close gap ? Requiring no infill.
 
Would have packed out to remove gap , 650mm worktop would hide all and give enough overhang .
 
darkan9el said:
Well I did battle with the base units, hardest part was getting it all level and staying level. If I had more time I'd do this better but I need to get this done. I might refine it later, I have a mate who has a joinery shop so I might ask him to run off a few small in-fills to level it to the door.

Constructive criticism? (Be gentle ;))
Click to expand...
Looks neat )
 
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