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Hello all,
we are re-doing the kitchen, it is in an extension off a terraced Victorian house.
The kitchen size will be roughly 2.38m x 6m.
I have a couple of challenges coming up, questions underlined.
A. the floors of the main building are higher by 18cm than the current kitchen floor (which is only concrete+vinyl on top, as we speak). The idea is to build up the kitchen floor to the same level as the dining area, and in the process we can wack some insulation in.
The final finish is going to be tiles.
I can probably get away with joists of 47 x 122 seeing as the max span is 2.38m, however that leaves me with 58mm left to the dining room level. In those 58 mm I need to fit ply, I was thinking 18mm for extra sturdiness seeing as the final finish is tiles; then tiles and screed (extra 10mm?); insulation will be insert in between joists, I am therefore left with 30mm clearance all going well.
- Is there any (thin) insulation that I can lay on top of the joists to guarantee extra warmth, as right now the floor is really very cold?
- Do you think that 30mm is enough clearance to guarantee sub-floor ventilation AND will the timbers and ply be sturdy enough for a tiled floor kitchen?
To be noted, the span is north-south, south wall is facing the garden of the neighbour, so no air bricks there. We will have air bricks on the north side.
B. The kitchen has always suffered from damp problems. Cabinets and wall units, especially in the corners, have always had damp issues and a musty smell, even the cabinets on the south corner adjoining the neighbour garden, so the back wall of that corner should see some sun, at least in spring/summer.
We have lived in the house for 2.5 years, last year the parapet located one floor above the south kitchen wall has been redone due to renovation upstairs. We are aware approx. 10 years ago the kitchen had been injected at 1m high for rising damp (as if it helps).
I can see now that the kitchen has been ripped out, there is light mould on the plaster in the bottom corners, screws fixing the skirtings are rusty, a backbox (1.5m height) in the south wall is rusty too.
It could be either that the water was percolating from the old, crappy parapet wall, or it could be "rising damp".
- Either way, what's the best we can do at the moment to make sure that our new kitchen cabinets will not go musty in a couple years?
To be noted, we leave window open and fan on when cooking, boiling kettle, etc.
Going now back to point A, due to the above, i.e. not knowing how up to scratch the kitchen extension is and if it has a DPM / DPC at all, you understand that I would want for the joists to be suspended wall to wall, rather than laying them on a concrete floor which could be without any DPM. I would use galvanised steel joists hanger to make sure joists don't rot over time.
we are re-doing the kitchen, it is in an extension off a terraced Victorian house.
The kitchen size will be roughly 2.38m x 6m.
I have a couple of challenges coming up, questions underlined.
A. the floors of the main building are higher by 18cm than the current kitchen floor (which is only concrete+vinyl on top, as we speak). The idea is to build up the kitchen floor to the same level as the dining area, and in the process we can wack some insulation in.
The final finish is going to be tiles.
I can probably get away with joists of 47 x 122 seeing as the max span is 2.38m, however that leaves me with 58mm left to the dining room level. In those 58 mm I need to fit ply, I was thinking 18mm for extra sturdiness seeing as the final finish is tiles; then tiles and screed (extra 10mm?); insulation will be insert in between joists, I am therefore left with 30mm clearance all going well.
- Is there any (thin) insulation that I can lay on top of the joists to guarantee extra warmth, as right now the floor is really very cold?
- Do you think that 30mm is enough clearance to guarantee sub-floor ventilation AND will the timbers and ply be sturdy enough for a tiled floor kitchen?
To be noted, the span is north-south, south wall is facing the garden of the neighbour, so no air bricks there. We will have air bricks on the north side.
B. The kitchen has always suffered from damp problems. Cabinets and wall units, especially in the corners, have always had damp issues and a musty smell, even the cabinets on the south corner adjoining the neighbour garden, so the back wall of that corner should see some sun, at least in spring/summer.
We have lived in the house for 2.5 years, last year the parapet located one floor above the south kitchen wall has been redone due to renovation upstairs. We are aware approx. 10 years ago the kitchen had been injected at 1m high for rising damp (as if it helps).
I can see now that the kitchen has been ripped out, there is light mould on the plaster in the bottom corners, screws fixing the skirtings are rusty, a backbox (1.5m height) in the south wall is rusty too.
It could be either that the water was percolating from the old, crappy parapet wall, or it could be "rising damp".
- Either way, what's the best we can do at the moment to make sure that our new kitchen cabinets will not go musty in a couple years?
To be noted, we leave window open and fan on when cooking, boiling kettle, etc.
Going now back to point A, due to the above, i.e. not knowing how up to scratch the kitchen extension is and if it has a DPM / DPC at all, you understand that I would want for the joists to be suspended wall to wall, rather than laying them on a concrete floor which could be without any DPM. I would use galvanised steel joists hanger to make sure joists don't rot over time.
