Kitchen sink installation

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2scoops0406

We have had to have our kitchen "remodelled" due to having an extension put on the back of our house. The main uphot of this is that the kitchen sink has been moved, and new worktops were required. The kitchen sink originally sat tight onto the worktop. I think the orignal fitter put sealant under the sink, fitted it into the worktop, this squeezed the excess sealant out which was then cut off after it had cured, leaving a neat job :D (at least I think this was how it was done).

Now after refitting the sink sits proud of the worktop by about 2mm, and the fitter is proposing to put sealant around the outside edge of the sink, something that will look cr*p in my opinion :( . I think what he has done is apply a bead of sealant to the worktop, let it go off, and then plonked the sink onto of that. Any advice anyone?

Thanks
 
There might be enough sponginess in the silicon, so that the clips under the sink can pull it closer to the worktop when tightened a bit more, although I doubt it.
Failing that if you cannot live with a bead around the edge, I think the only option is to take the sink back out clean the silicone off everything and start again.
 
Thanks for the reply. So would the sequence of events after removal of sink and exisiting sealant be:-

Put sealant on worktop (or underside of sink??)
fit sink and tighten, excess sealant should be squeezed out.
Let sealant cure
Remove excess from around sink with sharp knife / razor blade.

If so, is there any particular type of sealant I should use (other than transparent of course), just a bit concerned that I might be difficult to get the excess off the worktop.

I know it sounds picky, by when the sink was originally put in, it looked a very professional job, and I'm keen (as is the wife :wink: ) to ensure it looks as good as it did previously

Thanks.
 
You have the sequence right, I prefere to put sealant onto the sink as it less messy, than putting onto the worktop. I would also try to get as much of it off while still wet, at the best it's nice just to have a thin bead right around the edge, it's very easy to cut off then.

Any decent silicone is ok. ie not the cheap stuff.

I do not think you are being picky, it's looked good before, so should again.

The clips on the sink can be a right swine, both when taking out the sink and putting back, I find swearing a lot helps.

Good luck.
 
My kitchen fitter has disappeared off the face of the earth :evil: , I think I know why, the sink doesn't fit flush to the worktop because a) he didn't remove the old sealant and b) most of the clips look as though they are broken. I shall redo the sink myself as I don't think I can make a worse pigs ear of it. Question is, is it possible to buy new clips for the sink? The sink in question is a carron pheonix composite. Thanks for any advice. I checked my quite large collection of sealants today, and guess just about everything except translucent kitchen sealant :(
 
I've tried to buy them a couple of times without success. They do also vary in design so it's not one size fits all.

An acceptable method without clips is to silicon the sink, place in position and then put some weight on it until the silicon cures. I know a couple of fitters that never use the clips.

It's quite an easy job, so cannot see why your fitter did a runner, maybe he has seen something that you have not. Have a good look around also check the sink is reasonably flat.
 
Just re-read your post, it's unusual for the clips to break, if you overtighten them they just pullout.

You need some silicon remover, screwfix is the best I have used but by the time you add P&P could work out pricey.

Once you have got the silicon off put the sink in the hole, push down where it is not touching, if it goes down with a light-medium amount of force it should still be possible to keep it there with silicon, just be sure to put the weight at this point.

Bet your sorry you did not leave it as it was now.
 
Unfortunately leaving it where it was wasn't an option, as that wall doesn't exist anymore! Our fitter (well actually he's a joiner and a good one at that , just not a good kitchen fitter) claimed that the sink wasn't flat, but I don't believe him, it was ok before, so I don't see what has changed, apart from the broken possibly bent (tomorrow will tell!) clips. Also have to straighten up some of the unit doors and drawers as they are now higgledy piggledy, it is funny how door that are slightly out of alignment have the power to make our expensive kitchen look like something that was thrown together. Many thanks for the advice though, appreciated. :D
 
Remember the goldern rule for alignmemt, a little goes a long way.

A lot of carpenters & joiners do not get on with kitchens, my own thoughts are, that is because they are not actually making anything, which is more rewarding and skillful than just plonking in a load of boxes.

I started off as a machinist/joiner making high end kitchens and was always jealous of the fitters being out & about, so became one of them after 6 years.

A million worktops later, not sure I chose wisely.
 
You can Get Spare from them at:

Carron Phoenix Limited,
Carron Works,
Stenhouse Road,
Falkirk,
FK2 8DW,
Scotland

Tel: 01324 638 321
Fax: 01324 620978
 
Thanks for the advice, I've adjusted the doors and drawers, only required a couple of mil adjustment, but what a difference, I think I'll wait until Monday to see if I can get any spare clips, otherwise I'll reseal, and either weigh down, or brace against the ceiling.
 
Ok, If dumb Q then sorry.

Nothing stopping sink sitting down, due to worktop fitted in a slightly lower position, like pipework?

P
 
That initially was a problem, but "solved" using, dare I say it, flexible braided pipes. By hook or by crook it'll fit, even if I break the b****r in two :!: The sink that is, if I break the worktops, I shall have to kill myself.
 
Almost there then ... hernia 'n all !!

Hadn't better advise raising the worktops then !!

Seriously there has to be something holding it 2mm off the worktop.
If the hole is ok for size, and no pipes connected then it has to sit down.
Can you see the 'flange' location face of the sink from underneath twixt bowl drop and worktop cutout ... use mirror especially furthest away from you .... something has to be fouling.

P
 
Prime suspect is the old mastic (sealant) which wasn't removed from the old installation, from what I can see, without removing the sink, it is sitting on a bead of old silicone
 
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