Kitchen Worktop Joints Not Level

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Hello,

We had out kitchen fitted last November, and as the year has gone on we've spotted several issues.

The worst (or the one that seems to be driving my wife crazy) is that the worktop joints aren't level. It's a U shaped kitchen and both connecting joints seems to be raised. Is this an easy fix? And is it one I can do myself, or is it best getting in a professional?

I did search a little across the web, but couldn't find any videos or much info matching my situation.

It's a oak effect laminate worktop and I do know it's not been colourfilled. It was only colourfilled after it was in position for some reason, so hopefully that makes it easier to shift.

There's no way i'm getting the last bloke back in, so will have to look around if it's not something I can do myself.

Just looking for some advice, any help, opinions are massively appreciated.

Thank you
 
I assume that the guy used connector bolts and possibly wooden biscuits to hold them together. If he used silicone, rather than glue on the joins, you may be able to reduce the height discrepancy. The connector bolts should be visible from the underside.

Most worktop connector bolts need a ring spanner, some, such as zip bolts use a hex screwdriver bit to tighten/loosen

You may however need some shims under the worktop joins to prevent them dropping again.

As above, photos will help.
 
Thank you both, i'll get some photos tonight when I get home from work and post them as soon as I can.

There's definitely connector bolts holding them together under the worktop. I think the work top may be siliconed on, you can even see evidence where the tops of the cupboard have been done and he's gone over the edge...
 
Thank you both, i'll get some photos tonight when I get home from work and post them as soon as I can.

There's definitely connector bolts holding them together under the worktop. I think the work top may be siliconed on, you can even see evidence where the tops of the cupboard have been done and he's gone over the edge...
I assume that the guy used connector bolts and possibly wooden biscuits to hold them together. If he used silicone, rather than glue on the joins, you may be able to reduce the height discrepancy. The connector bolts should be visible from the underside.

Most worktop connector bolts need a ring spanner, some, such as zip bolts use a hex screwdriver bit to tighten/loosen

You may however need some shims under the worktop joins to prevent them dropping again.

As above, photos will help.
Got some decent photos? Not just some close-ups, include some that show the whole worktop.
 
Assuming the worktop isn't "blown" (i.e. swelled because of the ingress of water), you'll probably need to break the joints, pull them level and rejoin them which may require quite quite a bit of effort, including dismantling the two outer legs of the top (which are more than likely siliconed at the wall junction and screwed to the "nailers" at the top of the cabinets from the undersides). TBH if you have never fitted a mason's mitre jointed worktop I'd recommend leaving it to the pros
 
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20231122_171522.jpg
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That is one shti joint. Assuming its not blown due to water ingress I would assume that the worktops weren't level in the 1st place i.e. not truly horizontal or the tie bolts beneath haven't been sunk far enough into the underside of the worktops thus creating eccentric forces that are trying to push the work tops up
 
They are quite simply two of the very worst worktop joints I have ever seen, they truly are shocking.

But that doesn't help you. You need a professional to sort this mess out.

This picture is one of my worktop joints for reference.
Screenshot_20231122_193305_Facebook.jpg
 
They are quite simply two of the very worst worktop joints I have ever seen, they truly are shocking.

But that doesn't help you. You need a professional to sort this mess out.

This picture is one of my worktop joints for reference.View attachment 322173
Makes me realise the wife has a point and I'm just wanting to avoid the hassle.

I think the angles make it look worse that it is, but thank you for your honesty.

He was a proper cowboy in hindsight. All the corners are pretty poor, especially on the upstands to the point where the wife wants to remove them and tile instead. The only problem with that is one of the counters wasn't butted up right to the wall (due to uneven walls he said, but I think he simply cut it wrong) so if we take it off we're left with an inch gap that won't be hidden by the tiles.
 
More like a ravine than a joint.

Separate it, clean it and then see if it actually goes together properly with no gaps. If it does happy days, a tube of colour fill and the speed of Billy Whiz and you are done. If not, then this thread will get longer.
 
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