Laminate Floor For Kitchen - Waterproof Membrane Needed?

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I'm going to lay laminate flooring in my kitchen (slate tile effect).

I flooring I'm purchasing is OK for kitchen use, I will also be using Wickes fibre board underlay.

Do I need to lay a waterproof as its for the kitchen? If so what order do I install?

Underlay
W/P Membrane
Laminate Floor

Or

W/P Membrane
Underay
Laminate Floor

Cheers
 
No you do not need a membrane. Just lay your underlay and then your laminate. Job done.
 
'cuse me, but you can't answer that question like that.

You first need to know what type of underfloor there is. If concrete or old vynil or marley tiles, then YES dpm is needed (or combi-underlayment)

Oh and stay away from the fiber boards - too thick and could make your floor wobbly and bouncy, especially thin laminate floors.
 
I can answer the question like that because the flooring is rated for kitchen use therefore it has a high degree of water resistance built in and with the use of the fibre underlay boards I would say it would be fine. I have used the thick underlay boards on numerous flooring jobs in properties I still own and have yet to experience the wobbly or bouncy floor you mention. This is my opinion from my experience and there is no need to implement it if you get an alternative answer.
 
'cuse me, but you can't answer that question like that either.

As woody says, its down to the subfloor!

If a solid floor (not timber) then yes you need a vapiour barrier (dpm).
O and Dpm/underlay/flooring for the op.

If timber subfloor then no dpm.

I would also steer clear of fibre boards, they can make your subfloor worse and raise the floor to much.
 
Again I can answer the question how I like. As i said my advice is my advice and you take it or leave it. I am not saying it has to be followed to the letter, nor am I saying lets wait for someone with letters after his name to come along and show us the one and only way of doing it. Of course there is a recognised practice of installation and right now you or I do not know the subfloor composition but from my experience my answer was valid. I still fail to see why the opposition to the fibre underlay boards. They are designed for the intended use and I have never heard or experienced any negatives about them until now.
 
Subfloor is timber boards, will be laying directly on to these.

So taking your advice I will not use a DPM.

Many Thanks for the advice
 
Subfloor is timber boards, will be laying directly on to these.

So taking your advice I will not use a DPM.

Many Thanks for the advice
Are you planning to install your new boards in the same direction as your existing floor?

If so, and your existing boards are a bit cupped or uneven it is better to install some hardboard or plywood first.
Sound and practical advice from someone without letters after their name, have some letters in between though, does that count? ;-)

Don't take me wrong DAZB - but there are many questions from DIY-ers here who leave out some important details, like the type of underfloor they have. So it is my custom to ask first and then point them in the right direction. Asuming the answer will just not do, not even from your own experience.
 
I was not assuming the answer in my reply. It would have been the same regardless of subfloor because the poster had already mentioned the kind of laminate they were fitting, and the fact that I have worked with this actual product probably more than 40 times, I know what it is capable of in terms of it's water resistance and it's ability to withstand a lot of humidity and moisture. Therefore I can give my opinion based on what I know to be true and a method that actually works fine.
 
Could be DAZB, but I was talking about the effect ON the underfloor if you use the wrong type of underlayment ON the underfloor, no matter what type of flooring you install on top of it.
 
daz, it dont matter what rating the flooring has. It is only garanteed to 75% rh. That does not include condinsation / dew point etc. If the subfloor is wrong the flooring will fail.
Also fibre boards are moister sensitive and need an active vapiour barrier over concrete subfloor.
Also as 'woody' has said, the wrong set up will also affect the subfloor, being wooden if you have a vapour barrer it will cause problems etc.

And to be fair, what does it matter how many you have fitted if your doing it wrong from the word go? You must of been lucky from the word go.

And letters after my name??? Is that a guess as i dont have any printed in my profile or on here.
 
It may be time to rewrite the manual on the installation process then because in the 40-odd jobs where I have laid the fibre boards and then the tile-loc laminate I have had a problem with exactly none of them. These are all in jobs I still visit regularly in tenanted properties so I know the state of play with how it's lasting. And trust me I am not lucky, If I fell into a barrel of t*ts I'd come out sucking my thumb ! Here's your letters I mean.....BWFA, NICF, NVQ.
 
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