latch for double gate

[Ouch77]

I've built a 6ft double gate for my drive, it's fully clad (pic below, still needs paint).



I need to find a suitable catch/latch/lock. ideally I want a self engaging catch/latch to hold the gate shut, with the option to lock/unlock from both the "outside" and "inside".

One issue is the gate opens outwards (it's midway up the drive) and thus a traditional ring or suffolk latch would be on the leaf that open second, meaning I'd need a second handle/ring on the first leaf and the latch arm would be a bit of a snag hazard.

I don't want the latch arm on the 'outside' for aesthetic and security reasons, however I do want to be able to open from the outside as well as the inside.

I'm considering a long throw gate lock for deadlocking purposes:

But I'd still like some form of 'hold closed' type latch that self engages and can be released by turning a handle/lever on either side.

I was considering fitting a regular tube latch and suitable knobs, but given the tolerances of the gate are a bit larger than that of an internal door, I'm thinking it may not engage properly, plus there's the consideration it'll be outside - how long before it rusts solid - do they do fully stainless/galv versions?

Does anyone have any suggestions?

 

[Mr Chibs]

Probably not what you wanted, but I've used a mortise 5 lever, like you have on a front door, as I couldn't find anything that suitable.

I bought a stainless steel version and so far it's weathering well (4-5 months).
From here

My posts (for the keep) were 6" and gate frame (for the lock) are 4x2"

PS gates look good.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Could you make up a bit of shelter to keep the weather off the one you yoursef suggested and keep it well greased?

Mechanical code lock? - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hoppe-87128205-Arrone-D-195MC-Digital/dp/B00APLNVKA?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5

The latch would probably not stick out far enough though?

Electronic code lock, with a small motor driving the bolt in and out, via a gearbox? A lot of DIY engineering there.

Small hole cut in the gate, with a padlockable bolt - accessible from either side.

 

[Ouch77]

Probably not what you wanted, but I've used a mortise 5 lever, like you have on a front door, as I couldn't find anything that suitable.

I bought a stainless steel version and so far it's weathering well (4-5 months).
From here

My posts (for the keep) were 6" and gate frame (for the lock) are 4x2"

PS gates look good.

Thanks, looking forward to getting it painted and finished properly now (just need some dry weather).

I'd prefer not to use a lever lock, as I've got a Euro cylinder on the front, and will have on the back (when I get around to it) so I reckon I can get a euro profile long through deadbolt, so I can be keyed alike for ultimate convenience.

my headache is the latch element rather than the lock. Most deadlocks seem to have a 15mm throw (from what little I can determine online). Whereas latches have a 10mm throw - this I feel is a little close to tolerance.

My gate frame is 4x2" so there's plenty of material for lock and keep, but I'd rather not have to scoop out a mortise now the gates are hung (I did the joints for the frame with a router, all my chisels are blunt as 20yr old abused chisels can be)

Could you make up a bit of shelter to keep the weather off the one you yoursef suggested and keep it well greased?

Mechanical code lock? - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hoppe-87128205-Arrone-D-195MC-Digital/dp/B00APLNVKA?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5

The latch would probably not stick out far enough though?

Electronic code lock, with a small motor driving the bolt in and out, via a gearbox? A lot of DIY engineering there.

Small hole cut in the gate, with a padlockable bolt - accessible from either side.

The lock in my original post is designed for outside use, so I'm not too worried about that, however the latch not sticking out far enough is my headache - I'd like a regular tube latch with 15-20mm travel for ultimate peace of mind, do such things exists?

I'll probably pass on your other ideas - whilst I'd love the challenge of home automation, my wife would throw a fit if after 6 months she still can't open the gate without a laptop and some jump-leads

 

[foxhole]

Gates will need up to 20mm gap for expansion when wet .

 

[foxhole]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/LOCKS-BL44...ocphy=9044972&hvtargid=pla-489677471458&psc=1
Designed for external use

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/LOCKS-BL44...ocphy=9044972&hvtargid=pla-489677471458&psc=1
Designed for external use

I don't think that would cope with the expansion and contraction you mention in your earlier post of 20mm.

I have just ordered one quite similar to that, for a garage side door. I'm curious about the permissible codes. Do the codes numbers have to in the right order; or just the right ones in any sequence; can one number be used twice in the unlock code; do the number have to be lowest number first? Anyone know?

 

[Ouch77]

20mm sounds reasonable - I work on a movement of up to 10% of the crossgrain distance, and given the timber had a thorough soaking over the past couple of weeks, and is now half-dry (at a guess), I've got a 10-15mm gap, so I reckon I'm about in the money - it's not sticking, but it will be interesting to see how big the gap gets after a long dry spell.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/LOCKS-BL44...ocphy=9044972&hvtargid=pla-489677471458&psc=1
Designed for external use

Nice idea, but I'd prefer something that cannot be opened from inside without a key, and ideally also with a catch-only option for back-and-forth days when I want to shut the gate, but not lock it (say if I'm working in the front garden).

I'm curious about the permissible codes. Do the codes numbers have to in the right order; or just the right ones in any sequence; can one number be used twice in the unlock code; do the number have to be lowest number first? Anyone know?

If it's a purely mechanical device then I suspect the code is not order dependant - there was a combination keysafe on my mum's place that I had to decypher, and it wasn't fussy about the order the numbers were entered.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

If it's a purely mechanical device then I suspect the code is not order dependant - there was a combination keysafe on my mum's place that I had to decypher, and it wasn't fussy about the order the numbers were entered.

It suggests 8000 different codes and 6 to 8 digits to unlock, with 13 different buttons and a cancel / clear button.

 

[Ouch77]

It suggests 8000 different codes and 6 to 8 digits to unlock, with 13 different buttons and a cancel / clear button.

If the number order was important then it would be 1,235,520 permutations using only 6 of the 13 characters (for the maths geeks that's 13!/7!) - the fact they are advertising 8000 combinations says to me that number order isn't important. thus it's a combination of 8! / 5 which is 8064 combinations.

descriptions of the maths principals here

 

[rsgaz]

Those type of locks, you can just set one digit if you like, or all 13. They are all either unset, or set, so the possible combinations is 2^13 = 8192

And yes, it doesn't matter what order you press them, so the real combinations is even less. If your code was 4 digits,
(13/4)(12/3)(11/2)(10/1)= 715 combinations.

 

[Ouch77]

Think I've almost found a solution, though it will involve having to chisel out a mortise:

I'll still need to find a handle and cylinder for it, but that shouldn't be too challenging.

Has anyone had any experience with Locinox hardware?

 

[foxhole]

Think I've almost found a solution, though it will involve having to chisel out a mortise:

I'll still need to find a handle and cylinder for it, but that shouldn't be too challenging.

Has anyone had any experience with Locinox hardware?

Looks like a sliding door lock?
Will be very difficult to use where dimension aren’t stable .

 

[Ouch77]

Looks like a sliding door lock?
Will be very difficult to use where dimension aren’t stable .

On first look it does, I assume the hook element is to discourage prising the gate away from the frame. What I like is the long throw of the latch, which would help mitigate the effect of expansion/contraction of the frame.