Leica V Lux 1 external monitor
- Thread starter yottie
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Very likely you can, both my Nikon and Pentax will connect to PC but they use different programs, not done it much with Nikon, but did use it with Pentax K10D which is about same spec as your camera, but I can change lens.
The problem was battery life, idea was to auto take one picture a second and show fast motion, however all the time PC connected to camera the camera is active, so seem to remember less than an hour battery life, just looked at this PC and I have not installed the software. It is called tethering software or Image Shuttle software. Internet search not sure if you can do it, See this review not sure if it works with your camera?
The problem was battery life, idea was to auto take one picture a second and show fast motion, however all the time PC connected to camera the camera is active, so seem to remember less than an hour battery life, just looked at this PC and I have not installed the software. It is called tethering software or Image Shuttle software. Internet search not sure if you can do it, See this review not sure if it works with your camera?
Hi there.
I would invest in a good quality monitor with a min 1080p res and IPS panels are good for colour.. You can get good monitors that are used by company's for photo's CAD drawing etc. This way you can see just how good the picture is. You can view the pictures via windows without any additional software if you wish. This is a pic i took and view on windows photos. Its ok for me but if you want to get perfect prints etc i'd go for some software. Also your PC Graphics card will effect the view on the screen too. It all boils down to how serious you take photography and how much you willing to spend.
Here's a cracking little starter monitor.
https://www.scan.co.uk/products/238...zel-monitor-1920x1080-hdmi-vga-low-blue-light
I would invest in a good quality monitor with a min 1080p res and IPS panels are good for colour.. You can get good monitors that are used by company's for photo's CAD drawing etc. This way you can see just how good the picture is. You can view the pictures via windows without any additional software if you wish. This is a pic i took and view on windows photos. Its ok for me but if you want to get perfect prints etc i'd go for some software. Also your PC Graphics card will effect the view on the screen too. It all boils down to how serious you take photography and how much you willing to spend.
Here's a cracking little starter monitor.
https://www.scan.co.uk/products/238...zel-monitor-1920x1080-hdmi-vga-low-blue-light
- Joined
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- Reaction score
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- Location
- Llanfair Caereinion, Nr Welshpool
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As you say the monitor needs calibrating and I could borrow the calibration tool from the camera club, however what I would consider the right way to process a picture is likely very different to how some one else would process the same image. What you see is not what you get, not sure if used in a studio or out doors, if out doors then there is a limit of what can be carried so monitors that size may not be the answer.
However looking at your image, reprocess same image and you get.
I am not saying better or worse, but it is very different, and this is the problem, one when out in the field has to imagine what it will/can look like when processed, what you need to remember is your eye constantly adjusts while looking at the view, you scan the view rather than see one image, so when you look at a picture often to make it look like you remember it looking like, you need to do some adjusting, be it simple levels or local tone mapping or even layers and masks, some times you want to make it more punchy, other times you want to make it look misty or dreamy, there is no right or wrong, this is why Ansel Adams was considered so good, it was not simply the image he captured but the way he processed it after, he needed real skill to dodge and burn, no photoshop for him. A print cost between $4,000 and $70,000. Not the negative this is cost of print from the negative because each one he printed was unique, no other would have the same dodge and burn done to it.
So I go out with my camera and I think, that has a massive dynamic range, it will be hard to capture, so out with tripod and set to take 3 or 5 images two or four stops over and under what the cameras built in light meter says. There are times also when things are changing too rapid, and just let the camera decide.
This photo was taken at work in a hurry, and it was all left to the camera, it is what I would call a record shot, it just shows what I was doing at work on that day it is I suppose unusually as I was where the general public would not be allowed, did not even look through view finder, it was a point and shoot.
I saw the steam from the steam heating in the carriages and liked the ambiance, maybe next year I can set a camera up specially to get a better version, maybe it will even snow, but some times you just have to take a chance, it was an old camera with CCD sensor, f 3.5 1/20 second ISO 200, had I had other camera and been able to up the ISO I could have also increased speed and it would have been sharper, even this camera had I had time to think and set camera likely could have set to 1/60 second at f3.5 and let camera set the ISO, but had I stopped to set camera I would have missed the picture.
As a studio picture I like macro, and so the microscope is likely connected direct to PC or the camera connected direct to PC, but that is very different to when out and about.
I walk or ride bike with camera in my ruck sack, and photos are not planned, it is what I find and see on the day, some good photographers keep books telling them time of day and time of year when sun will be just right, for me it is just the snap shot.
The name on the boat was same as my niece, so had to get a photo. f9.5 1/180 ISO 200 again with old CCD sensor camera originally as with all was in RAW format.
However looking at your image, reprocess same image and you get.
I am not saying better or worse, but it is very different, and this is the problem, one when out in the field has to imagine what it will/can look like when processed, what you need to remember is your eye constantly adjusts while looking at the view, you scan the view rather than see one image, so when you look at a picture often to make it look like you remember it looking like, you need to do some adjusting, be it simple levels or local tone mapping or even layers and masks, some times you want to make it more punchy, other times you want to make it look misty or dreamy, there is no right or wrong, this is why Ansel Adams was considered so good, it was not simply the image he captured but the way he processed it after, he needed real skill to dodge and burn, no photoshop for him. A print cost between $4,000 and $70,000. Not the negative this is cost of print from the negative because each one he printed was unique, no other would have the same dodge and burn done to it.
So I go out with my camera and I think, that has a massive dynamic range, it will be hard to capture, so out with tripod and set to take 3 or 5 images two or four stops over and under what the cameras built in light meter says. There are times also when things are changing too rapid, and just let the camera decide.
This photo was taken at work in a hurry, and it was all left to the camera, it is what I would call a record shot, it just shows what I was doing at work on that day it is I suppose unusually as I was where the general public would not be allowed, did not even look through view finder, it was a point and shoot.
As a studio picture I like macro, and so the microscope is likely connected direct to PC or the camera connected direct to PC, but that is very different to when out and about.
I walk or ride bike with camera in my ruck sack, and photos are not planned, it is what I find and see on the day, some good photographers keep books telling them time of day and time of year when sun will be just right, for me it is just the snap shot.