Hi all.
A mate who has limited mobility has asked me to fit six of the above LED battens in his garage for him to replace some seriously old and falling apart twin tube 5' fluorescent fittings that are well past their best They're rated at 67W each but there's nothing mentioned in the spec sheet about what the inrush current of the driver is. I don't know if I'm being over-cautious here but I don't want to fit them for him and then for him to tell me that they keep tripping the breaker.
The CU the lighting cct runs off is a Fusebox F2010XM the breaker is a 10A Type A B Curve RCBO (RTAMB10) & all the cabling is 1mm² T&E. It's currently run in a loop-in fashion (daisy chained ?) from the CU to the light switch (a 10AX unbranded unit) with the N and CPC in choc-blocs within the backbox.
Is there a "generic" calculation that can be made to figure out if the current setup is OK to swap the fittings or will the amount of fittings and drivers in the cct mean that the breaker may have to be changed & hence for him to get an electrician in ?
I said I'd go down this weekend to do them for him but I was going to ask for some advice first just in case there's any potential problems changing them over. I have done a fair bit of electrical work for myself but don't profess to be anything other than a (hopefully !) fairly competent DIY'er so if anything goes wrong, it's only me that has to put up with the fallout, it's a different matter entirely if I'm gonna do it for someone else.
TIA
A mate who has limited mobility has asked me to fit six of the above LED battens in his garage for him to replace some seriously old and falling apart twin tube 5' fluorescent fittings that are well past their best They're rated at 67W each but there's nothing mentioned in the spec sheet about what the inrush current of the driver is. I don't know if I'm being over-cautious here but I don't want to fit them for him and then for him to tell me that they keep tripping the breaker.
The CU the lighting cct runs off is a Fusebox F2010XM the breaker is a 10A Type A B Curve RCBO (RTAMB10) & all the cabling is 1mm² T&E. It's currently run in a loop-in fashion (daisy chained ?) from the CU to the light switch (a 10AX unbranded unit) with the N and CPC in choc-blocs within the backbox.
Is there a "generic" calculation that can be made to figure out if the current setup is OK to swap the fittings or will the amount of fittings and drivers in the cct mean that the breaker may have to be changed & hence for him to get an electrician in ?
I said I'd go down this weekend to do them for him but I was going to ask for some advice first just in case there's any potential problems changing them over. I have done a fair bit of electrical work for myself but don't profess to be anything other than a (hopefully !) fairly competent DIY'er so if anything goes wrong, it's only me that has to put up with the fallout, it's a different matter entirely if I'm gonna do it for someone else.
TIA