Manually open tailgate Peugeot 206

JohnD

JohnD

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my central locking has stopped working. Main dealer proposes a new ECU and a complete set of new door mechanisms (suggests to me they don't know what the fault is) for ££££££

I shall just manually lock it in future.

Does anyone know how to manually open the hatchback tailgate? I can see it from inside the car. I have in mind tying a bit of string to the latch....

Or perhaps I could add a switch to operate the solenoid.
 
Have you seen this
not sure if it will help or not, but it seems to be a common problem if you google pug 206 central locking.
 
I've seen lots of posts about the wireless keyfob not communicating with the car, but that's not my problem.
 
You could change the rear boot lock for a manual one from a lower spec 206 - it'll need another key, of course.
Failing that, a non latching switch wired in could operate the existing solenoid, if its still working.
John :)
 
stupid question but is there a key hole in the back?
My Volvo has a lock....
The central locking controls it if it is first locked by a turn in one direction (can't remember which way) and then on opens /closes with central system.
If the lock is turned the other way, central locking does not open or close the back, you must use a key.
presumably this is for valet parking etc to retain a secure area
 
Burnerman said:
a non latching switch wired in could operate the existing solenoid, if its still working.
John :)
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm thinking about that. I will crawl in and try to get the mechanism out.

In the event that the fault really lies in the ECU and the locks are not really faulty, it might be possible to put a manual switch on the dash to operate them. But for today, even a bit of string on the lock release would satisfy me.
 
I believe you need to crawl in the back and will be able to remove the trim panel and then just release it that way but no hole for a screwdriver like some other cars.
 
I would lay money that it's not the ECU but the cable that runs from body to tailgate has a fractured core.

Particually if vehicle is a few years old.
 
Thanks for the replies.

All the locks stopped centrally locking or unlocking, on the same day, whether you use the key, or the fob, or the knob on the inside of the door. There is a tick from something in the dashboard, perhaps from a relay, when you try.

Have checked the fuse.

I think it's probably the ECU but if it is a wire, it is probably one at or near the ECU.

The main dealer was a waste of space, they charged me £99 to investigate, and say that all the door locks, and the ECU, need replacing for more than a thousand pounds. Obviously they have no idea what the fault actually is.

The car has only done about 21k miles (elderly family member) but is 15 years old.

The back hatch is of particular interest because it has no apparent way to manually lock or unlock.
 
Last edited:
once you get access to the lock you can find a live 12v feed somewhere in the rear light cluster and try to trigger the lock?
Have you found a wiring diagram?
 
JohnD said:
Thanks for the replies.

All the locks stopped centrally locking or unlocking, on the same day, whether you use the key, or the fob, or the knob on the inside of the door. There is a tick from something in the dashboard, perhaps from a relay, when you try.

Have checked the fuse.

I think it's probably the ECU but if it is a wire, it is probably one at or near the ECU.

The main dealer was a waste of space, they charged me £99 to investigate, and say that all the door locks, and the ECU, need replacing for more than a thousand pounds. Obviously they have no idea what the fault actually is.

The car has only done about 21k miles (elderly family member) but is 15 years old.

The back hatch is of particular interest because it has no apparent way to manually lock or unlock.
Click to expand...
Did you ever find what the problem was?
 
Not really. I couldn't find it. However, I took off the inner plastic lining of the hatch, and identified the unlocking motor. I drilled a small hole in the cover, and tied a nylon cord to the unlocking end, led it through the hole, and fixed a toggle on it, so that pulling the toggle unlocked the boot.

It would have been possible to fit a lever handle, but you'd want it up by the back window so you can reach it leaning over the back seat.

I later bought a battery case, which I put 8 AA batteries in, and bought a momentary DPDT switch, with centre "off" position (I think it might be used for electric windows) so I could electrically lock and unlock the boot. I could probably have wired it to operate all the locks, and taken a power supply from the car, but I couldn't be bothered to identify the car wiring. Finding out the switch is called DPDT made it easy to find on ebay.

You need one with six pins.

Power in through the middle two, out through top L and R, and through bottom R and L (crossed over to reverse polarity for open and shut). It does not matter that they are connected together, because the switch can never put power through both ends at the same time.

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