I fitted my current laminated kitchen worktop about 10 years ago and it went ok but I was never fully satisfied with the joints which I never got completely flat. I am just about to install a replacement laminated worktop and would just like a bit of advice to help me get good level and reasonably invisible joints. The mitres and clamp recesses are cut and they are fine, just the fitting to do. Last time I used biscuits which I will not be doing this time as I think they were more of a hindrance than a help. I am also not sure what to use adhesive wise. Last time I used coloured acrylic adhesive/sealant but this seemed to go off quite quickly giving limited time for adjustments. One last question, are these joints strong enough to be made outside of the kitchen and then carried in and fitted once cured? Any advice welcome. Thanks.
Masons mitre assebbly tips
- Thread starter davecooper
- Start date
I did my own with the help of this video, the whole video is brilliant for a DIYER, you might find it useful from 30.28.
I joined the two pieces in situ, offset to give enough space, though it's fiddly. Doing it off site might skew the flatness of the pieces and therefore the join but I never tried
Didn't bother with biscuit joints, just hammered the two pieces flat before final tightening.
Blup
I joined the two pieces in situ, offset to give enough space, though it's fiddly. Doing it off site might skew the flatness of the pieces and therefore the join but I never tried
Didn't bother with biscuit joints, just hammered the two pieces flat before final tightening.
Blup
Thanks. Some good tips there. I see he uses PVA which would appear to be ok. Is this better than silicone or acrylic sealer? I have plenty of worktop offcuts so I think I will try a test piece before I do the real one. My new worktops are black gloss so I don't want to use anything that will show in the join.
Best to use colour match sealer on joints.