Megger MFT 1720 vs Megger MFT 1552 vs Fluke 1653B
I use a 1552 and both my bosses use the fluke. The flukes are forever breaking / giving ridiculous readings despite being well within their calibration
The 1552 and and presumably newer models auto test on PFC/Ze and if I'm not mistaken the 1720 is a two wire test on both hi and no trip for Zs, whereas the 1552 is only two wire on hi current and I think the fluke is three wire on both.
The fluke does PFC and Ze on the same test and displays the readings on the screen at the same time, but once you remove voltage the PFC reading disappears for some infuriating reason.
The fluke is also very easy to have on the wrong setting, has infuriating error codes you have to try and decipher.
If it's for you, and not for everyday use (not that it's not good enough for that) just pick up a used 1552 on eBay. They're idiot (no offence intended) and bullet proof.
Megger test leads are VERY expensive though, so either make sure you get one with a decent set or get a fluke! The full set of megger leads would be getting on for £150
The 1552 and and presumably newer models auto test on PFC/Ze and if I'm not mistaken the 1720 is a two wire test on both hi and no trip for Zs, whereas the 1552 is only two wire on hi current and I think the fluke is three wire on both.
The fluke does PFC and Ze on the same test and displays the readings on the screen at the same time, but once you remove voltage the PFC reading disappears for some infuriating reason.
The fluke is also very easy to have on the wrong setting, has infuriating error codes you have to try and decipher.
If it's for you, and not for everyday use (not that it's not good enough for that) just pick up a used 1552 on eBay. They're idiot (no offence intended) and bullet proof.
Megger test leads are VERY expensive though, so either make sure you get one with a decent set or get a fluke! The full set of megger leads would be getting on for £150
Don't under estimate the useful-ness of 2 lead loop testing along with auto-start (on the megger)... You need less hands to support gear tray of fitting, and apply two probes than support gear tray of fitting, apply 3 probes and press test button! The later often requires more than the two normally available!
That said, the low current test on the megger can be a bit hit and miss at times and sometime come back with silly figures. The Fluke however does non-trip in a different way so can be more accurate in this respect.
On balance I'd have the megger, I wouldn't mind a fluke as a back up instrument though
That said, the low current test on the megger can be a bit hit and miss at times and sometime come back with silly figures. The Fluke however does non-trip in a different way so can be more accurate in this respect.
On balance I'd have the megger, I wouldn't mind a fluke as a back up instrument though
I've never had an issue with mine, the only time's mine has given me stupid readings is when there's noise on the circuit, and it tells me it's there, so I know the reading is wrong, even if it would be an 'acceptable' reading.
The battery voltage indication on startup on the megger is another good feature, the fluke just starts playing up when the batteries are dying, it won't let you IR, for instance, but doesn't say 'I'm flat' it just says 'Computer says no'
I think you are being a bit hard on Flukes.
They are better for non-trip Zs readings,
two lead tests are possible,
there are only six error codes (three related to tests) which are self explanatory and
a low battery symbol appears when applicable plus you can read the battery voltage at the touch of a button.
Not sure what you mean by easy to have on wrong setting - they both have rotary knobs (admittedly no gaudy colours) but no damage will occur when on the wrong settings.
I like the Flukes.
Megger don't have a case that can be used as a seat for tea time (the clincher) or for standing on to reach.
They are better for non-trip Zs readings,
two lead tests are possible,
there are only six error codes (three related to tests) which are self explanatory and
a low battery symbol appears when applicable plus you can read the battery voltage at the touch of a button.
Not sure what you mean by easy to have on wrong setting - they both have rotary knobs (admittedly no gaudy colours) but no damage will occur when on the wrong settings.
I like the Flukes.
Megger don't have a case that can be used as a seat for tea time (the clincher) or for standing on to reach.
I mean the finer settings you adjust with the button on the left of the screen, RCD current, 0°/180° etc.
I probably am being quite hard on them, maybe the two I've used have just been abused, or are lemons, but they're both pretty awful.
I have never noticed the battery symbol, maybe they are faulty!
I did miss out that the 1653B does phase rotation, the 1552 does not. Big missing feature there
1653 does phase rotation - not before that.
Edit. just seen your later post.
Edit. just seen your later post.
I suspect some irony in your post, but nobody wants to carry loads of different testers if you don't have to
I often get a reading that can be maybe up-to 0.5 ohm higher than I know it should be (two points adj, each other) if sockets are old and worn, etc. Often sorted by putting plug in and out a few times and flicking the switch back and forth. Its not really the meter's fault, more to do with the laws of physics... thin layers of oxisdisation on contacts can appear to have significant resistance if only a low current is applied, a higher current however means a larger voltage dropped across the contact with resistance and can often cause it to break down
Ridiculous or inconsistent readings are often cased by worn out test leads, regardless of manufacturer. Test leads do not last forever and will need to be replaced at some point.
Batteries must be decent ones such as Energizer Lithium. If you buy your batteries in Poundland, you get what you deserve.
Batteries must be decent ones such as Energizer Lithium. If you buy your batteries in Poundland, you get what you deserve.
So quality zinc-carbon batteries from the likes of Duracell , Kodak, etc are no good?
Zinc carbon batteries in general are useless for high current equipment, regardless of who makes them.
Perfectly fine for low current items such as clocks or remote controls.
Perfectly fine for low current items such as clocks or remote controls.