Meter tails.

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Getting started.

Ok I’ll just say I am a electrician but I’ve been out of the uk for quite a while so not sure on full rules regarding this.

I need to relocate my board too around 5m away from the meter the run would be up the cavity to where the board currently is (Which will be getting patched over) then there is a 200mm chase to the ceiling then into floor space and through maybe 4 joists then board will go ceiling height in final location.

I know the chase needs to be 50mm deep for none armoured none rcd cables, but am I fine just running meter tails through joist, I guess 25mm tails I’d get them in a 32mm hole.
 
Getting started. said:
I need to relocate my board too around 5m away from the meter
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The DNOs state if more than 3m. you must have a switch fuse. Just a rule.
You may, though, have the same rating of fuse as the cut-out fuse.

the run would be up the cavity to where the board currently is
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Not really preferred these days but people do.

(Which will be getting patched over) then there is a 200mm chase to the ceiling
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Still must be in the 'safe zones'; in this case within 150mm. of a wall corner - or SWA or cover in steel plate.

I know the chase needs to be 50mm deep for none armoured none rcd cables,
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Cables must be more than 50mm. deep.

but am I fine just running meter tails through joist,
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Yes, again more than 50mm. from surface or protected and in acceptable part of joists.
https://www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:route

I guess 25mm tails I’d get them in a 32mm hole.
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Or two holes of cable size - plus earthing conductor.

Can you not run SWA?
 
Thanks for the quick reply. a 25mm swa would be pretty bulky and I have a joist about 40mm from the wall where I need to turn under the floor which would be a nightmare to turn into, also wouldn’t it be bigger than 32mm in diameter?

I reckon I could chase so there’s 50mm clearance to the cables it’s only 200mm but is metal capping earthed back to the meter cupboard enough to class as mechanical protection.

also can you just send me a pic of the kind is switch I need at the meter panel and does this replace the terminal blocks I used to add on a meter tail upgrade.

Also am I still allowed to cut the fuse tags.
Cheers
 
Getting started. said:
but is metal capping earthed back to the meter cupboard enough to class as mechanical protection.
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No.

Getting started. said:
then board will go ceiling height in final location.
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Not a good choice - how are people supposed to reach it at ceiling level?

Getting started. said:
also can you just send me a pic of the kind is switch I need at the meter panel and does this replace the terminal blocks I used to add on a meter tail upgrade.
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Are you really competent to be doing this work yourself?
 
The safest place for tails is in the brick cavity, IMO, as far as I know tails are still allowed in brick cavities, in the right circumstances.

I don't like the idea of the last 200mm being buried in the plaster/wall.

Why can't that section of cable go in the cavity as well?
 
flameport said:
No.


Not a good choice - how are people supposed to reach it at ceiling level?


Are you really competent to be doing this work yourself?
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why seriously why is there always a smart arse on forums like this. Yes I’m competent, I’m qualified in 2 western countries running hospital builds for 6 yrs. Like I said I’ve been away for quite a while and believe it or not electricians can do more than house bashing.

just because I’m not familiar with the gear here and the practice does not mean I’m not competent, the reason I’m here is to make sure I follow the regs. And as far as I can tell there’s no maximum height for a main switch here (I’m happy to be wrong) and given I have to live there I’d rather not hit my head on the switch board every time I put the washer on.
 
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sparkwright said:
The safest place for tails is in the brick cavity, IMO, as far as I know tails are still allowed in brick cavities, in the right circumstances.

I don't like the idea of the last 200mm being buried in the plaster/wall.

Why can't that section of cable go in the cavity as well?
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Ye it’s not great I know the dangers, I once drilled trough a mains cable in the wall which wasn’t 50mm deep or protected or near the meter and it was quite a mess after.

problem with the cavity is the joist next to the wall above makes making a hole through very tricky and the breeze wall feels like if I take a chisel to it, it wall blow out.
 
how big is a 25mm armoured? Maybe I can get the bend on it if I feed through the joist then down, then I’ll not need the 50mm anywhere, it’s the safest option by far and I can gland into the metal board
And gland into a metal fused switch?
 
Very bad practice to bury tails in a wall, as you say, it's a bugger if it should ever get drilled through.
 
Getting started. said:
how big is a 25mm armoured? Maybe I can get the bend on it if I feed through the joist then down, then I’ll not need the 50mm anywhere, it’s the safest option by far and I can gland into the metal board
And gland into a metal fused switch?
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I suspect trying to install a 25mm armoured in such a way would be an absolute nightmare - and you will also struggle getting the armoured cable and a considerably larger switch fuse in a meter kiosk.

Also, you can still drill through armoured cable, and you really don't want that.

Is it really that hard to get past the joist and the wall to the cavity?
 
sparkwright said:
I suspect trying to install a 25mm armoured in such a way would be an absolute nightmare - and you will also struggle getting the armoured cable and a considerably larger switch fuse in a meter kiosk.

Also, you can still drill through armoured cable, and you really don't want that.

Is it really that hard to get past the joist and the wall to the cavity?
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if it wasn’t my house I’d smash the brick through to the cavity and let the owner worry about half a breeze block missing haha.

The joist is roughly 40mm away from the wall which is 150mm breeze so I mean I could do it but I’d loose a fair chunk of wall because I’d have to hit the wall through above floor level and work down 50mm and said wall doesn’t look super sturdy already, I’ve not a load of options though, even if I go surface outside and drill straight though the wall could go and I’ve a cable outside.

only reason I’m moving the board is it’s going to be under a wet room so I’ll never get to it again and the amount of cables I’m putting in it’s going to interfere with the shower or toilet.
 
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