Multitool recommendation needed please

D

dazzystar

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Hi All,

I want to undercut my skirting boards to fit laminate flooring. Can anyone recommend a make & model to look for? Nothing too expensive as it won't see a lot of use after the bedroom has been done.

Thanks
Daz
 
Why don't you remove the skirtings instead and refit them after you have fitted the laminate ?
 
that would ruin all the walls and turn it into a nightmare of a job. 1947 house with skirting boards to match...non starter!
 
Then if you're not planning to use it again after doing the job then just hire one
 
I was thinking about that but I'd prefer to own a tool, even if it'll only be used once or twice a year.
 
Good for you not wanting nasty Scotia trims everywhere. Do remember it'll be a pain sliding the floor under the skirtings (if you have undercut skirtings both sides of the job), good luck getting a straight cut & it will take a while
 
You can’t undercut skirting and get boards under , requires a gap which you can’t achieve .
 
Even if you could undercut each side to get the laminate underneath you will need to remove both end runs as you need to flex the last couple of boards before pressing them flat. You really only have 2 options. Remove all skirting boards carefully or floor out upto skirting, (leaving a 10mm expansion gap all round), and cover gap with scotia beading.
 
Whatever multitool you get, I'd recommend buying spare blades when you get it.
It's a PITA when your on your knees and it goes blunt or breaks and you have no replacement :)

Oh yes - they can be sharpened too.
 
mattylad said:
Oh yes - they can be sharpened too.
Click to expand...
That's interesting, I tend to chuck them away when they get blunt (well not actually away - too tight for that, just to the bottom of the toolbox) - how do you do it? small file or something?
 
You may be able to resharpen the tool steel ones, but forget the bimetallic ones they're way too hard
 
Sorry, but I'm trade and TBH life is just too short (I also stopped sharpening my own hand saws more than 30 years back when I finally went hardpoint). And that's a lot of effort for a £2 or £3 blade, unless you're from Yorkshire! Couldn't see any reference to tooth set in the video, either. If you hit anything hard in a cut your blade will probably get the tooth geometry drastically altered so when you resharpen you may need to reset the teeth. Just how do you manage that with teeth so small?

Where the blades are induction hardened you are on a hiding to nothing in any case (files just skate on them), and good luck getting a suitable file for the Japanese tooth blades I favour for precision cuts.

As to cutting skirting, I tend to use bimetallic blades for anything that might have metal in it, you know like the nails, pins, etc that are used to fix skirtings and mouldings in place, because they tend to wreck carbon steel blades (I.e rip or abrade the teeth off leaving you with a useless piece of tin that has a fancy connector at one end but which can at least be reground as a very useful scraper blade)
 
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